Continued from Northern Tier - Great Lakes - Phase V
Tom, my touring guru and resident of New England since his college days, looked at our plan and immediately advised us we were rushing through New England and was right. We had tried to stick to our 60 miles per day, but we had trouble finding campsites, and my companions were more focused on finishing than savoring the experience, so daily mileage average went up in New England, and the hills were tough on us!
Day 77 19 August 2016
Newcomb, New York to 5 Miles West of Benson, Vermont
70.1 miles 7:28 riding time 3,750 ft elevation gain
Not stopping at Fort Ticonderoga was almost painful to me, but we cycled by its entrance gates and headed for the ferry knowing that the hills of Vermont would be significant.
Sean, Christy, Carol, and ferry worker on ferry to Vermont |
Christy, Carol, and Steve entering Vermont (Sean didn't want in the sun and was in a bit of a hurry, so he took the photo instead of using my awkward tri-pod |
We're farther off route than we intended and worked out a plan to get to our planned Warm Showers host tomorrow.
Day 78 19 August 2016
Layover day 5 Miles West of Benson, Vermont
Layover days always pass too quickly. Janie and Barry, Carol's pastor from years ago, were warm giving people whom we thoroughly enjoyed. We also enjoyed their location on Lake Champlain.
Janie and Barry Tate |
Day 79 21 August 2016
Orwell, Vermont to Bethel, Vermont
63.7 miles 6:18 riding time 3,881 ft elevation gain
Although Barry is a pastor with a sermon to preach this Sunday morning, they drove us back to the route- so we weren't climbing those crazy short steep gravel hills again! However, Orwell is a couple miles further into the route than where we left it, so we broke the continuous east west line of my bicycle tracks, but the trip to Barry and Janie's added considerably more miles than had been subtracted today!
church in a common style |
This kind of steepness was common both up and down |
downtown Bethel, Vermont |
Christy taking a swim in lieu of a shower |
While we were swimming, it started a warm rain. We went back to the diner for dessert, and afterward it was still pretty early to set up a stealth camp behind that band shell. We headed back to the mini park to see what the Ellis' were doing. I was hoping they hadn't set up the tents this early, but they were tired, and it was raining, meaning they'd be tempted. Here's what we found!
"Stealth camp" in Bethel, Vermont |
Day 80 22 August 2016
Bethel, Vermont to North Haverhill, New Hampshire
61.0 miles 5:18 riding time 3,632 ft elevation gain
The climbing and descending of New England continued.
Christy and Carol enter a covered bridge |
Sean, Sam, Carol, Christy, and Steve - photo taken by Jillian |
Day 81 23 August 2016
2 miles out of North Haverhill, New Hampshire to Fryeburg, Maine
61.0 miles 5:18 riding time 3,632 ft elevation gain
We were all sad to leave Sam's, but it looked like today's climb over Kancamagus would be the last real challenge of the trip with a lot to see along the way. We left in a thick fog that had everything wet, but we soon climbed above it. I was psyched up for a full day of climbing and sight-seeing, and for what I thought would be the last day of adventure.
a flock of wild turkey seen along the way |
a delightful little waterfall while climbing Kancamgus |
view of the mountains from near the top of Kancamagus |
I climbed to a marked trail head on Kancamagus and found it was more of an overlook. As I was rejoining the main road Sean and Carol appeared, and we went back to the "trailhead" for a few photos.
Sean, Carol, and Steve near the top |
my bike at the top |
looking down the other side - toward Maine |
at the bottom Kancamagus was a popular swimming hole where I stopped to take this photo |
The Canal Bridge Family Campground outside of Fryeburg was great, and the manager or owner gave us a discount as cross country cyclists. I took advantage of my position as dishwasher and went for a swim in the clear river while dinner was being cooked. Dinner was done and the dishes washed before twilight, but unrolling sleeping bags, setting out the next day's clothes, and miscellaneous chores of preparing for the next day in the tents wasn't done until twilight. This was the only evening that we noticed earlier nightfall affected us, and it means fall is approaching as our trip winds down.
Day 82 24 August 2016
Fryeburg, Maine to Brunswick, Maine
75.6 miles 7:30 riding time 4,278 ft elevation gain
I must have expected the Eastern Coastal Plain I studied in the 5th grade to extend up to Maine. It doesn't, and there was lots of climbing today. We always seemed to be going up or down. We rode within 1/10 of a mile of the world's last active Shaker Village and diverted there for a look around. I'm not sure if the others realized this was off route or not. I did and kept my mouth shut as we headed into the village. Three Shakers remain on earth and are in this village which has already been turned into a museum while the three continue living there. We walked within 3 ft of the 50 some year old last Shaker man, but we didn't know who he was until a little later.
Shaker Village, Maine |
Christy in one of the Shaker rooms where photography isn't allowed. We took no more photos after seeing that sign |
Leslie and Pete, our Warmshower hosts |
Day 83 25 August 2016
Brunswick, Maine to Duck Puddle Campground outside Damariscotta, Maine
49.3 miles 4:32 riding time 2,375 ft elevation gain
This group doesn't add mileage to the route for much of any reason, and we've rarely gotten off route by accident or intent, but today was different. We got lost a little leaving Pete and Leslie's but eventually found the great bike path we were supposed to be on. As we were nearing its end a local cyclist warned us of construction, "Ignore the signs, go to the road closed barrier, turn right, then turn left at the next light, and you'll be back on route." Really, we needed to go to the end of the bike path, turn right, and then left at the light- ignoring the signs. That would have put us back on route. Between the two events we added about 10 unnecessary miles to what would have been an extremely short day. This didn't sit well with Carol. I took these two errors in stride still surprised at how few navigating mistakes we've made. Of course, the steep hills of Maine continued, and I think the group was tired from previous days unexpected elevation gains. Anyway, when our lead rider of the day (that's never slow me) missed the final turn into Duck Puddle Campground and we all followed, there was a little friction in this group of friends that's been quite cohesive. I think our instances of getting lost or adding unproductive miles is remarkably low.
Duckpuddle campground had good WIFI and and nice lake, but I only caught up on e-mail and none of us went for a swim although it had a good beach on a lake and friendly guests.
Day 84 26 August 2016
Duck Puddle Campground outside Damariscotta, Maine to East Orland, Maine
72.5 miles 7:11 riding time 4,295 ft elevation gain
Good humor and a pleasant atmosphere seemed restored to the group this morning, and we were all prepared for the continual ascending and descending. We did blow through Belfast, what appeared to be a neat coastal village which hasn't become too much of a tourist trap, but on the way out of town stopped for photos and met a woman who made recommendations to visit Fort Knox and see the view point from the top of Penobscot bridge. Normally the group chooses the "shortest, fastest, easiest route" regardless of what we'd miss, but today we took her advice.
Belfast- our first real Atlantic port |
leaving Belfast, Maine: Steve, Sean, Carol, and Christy |
Inside Maine's Fort Knox looking at a cannon |
Penobscot Narrows Bridge - looking down from the observation tower |
Sean, Carol, Christy and Steve on the Penobscot Bridge - photo by Kathy Neddeau a great person we met in Belfast |
Steve, Christy, Carol, and Sean from the observation tower of Penobscot Narrows Bridge |
Verona, Maine from Fort Knox, Maine |
Day 85 27 August 2016
East Orland, Maine to Bar Harbor Maine (and back to Mount Desert Maine)
55.6 miles 5:19 riding time 3,077 ft elevation gain
I've dreaded the final day not wanting this fabulous trip to end, but it's here. The hills continue, but they surprise no one by this time. Sean wanted to shortcut in on hwy 1 but we stuck to the route. Pete, our last Warmshower's host had strongly suggested riding around the last inlet on hwy 230 instead of the busy route 3 which is A/C's route, but we stuck to busy route 3. We arrived at Margaret's house in Mt. Desert, took a little break, and headed on into Bar Harbor on the busy roads of a Saturday in a tourist town. The town was so full of people that being in it was uncomfortable for me. However, the boat launch is a great place to dip the bicycle wheels.
Wheel dipping in the Atlantic: Steve, Christy, Sean, and Carol |
There's much to see on the island, so a few photos follow!
sunrise from Cadillac Mountain |
hiking down to see Bass Harbor Lighthouse - Carol, Sean, Rick, and Christy |
Bass Harbor Lighthouse |
Rudolf, Steve, Christy, Rick, Margaret, Carol, and Sean - photo by Ursula |
Ursula and Rudolf - complete the trip 2 days after us |
Christy, Carol, and Sean delivering their bikes to Southwest Cycle for shipment home |
Northern Tier 2016 final dinner (lobster) Ed, Muff, Carol, Margaret, Rick Steve, Christy, Ed, Carol, Brian, and Leslie |
sunset from our final dinner table |
On 2 Sep Margaret, Rick, and I delivered Christy to the Bar Harbor Airport where a few tears were shed by all. It's hard to say good-bye to great touring companions of the summer as well as admit the adventure is ending.
No tour is over until you're home and adjusted to the non-touring life. I'd planed to ride down to Barrington, RI to meet my friend, Tom Germano, from the 1995 Southern Tier, and spend a couple nights with him and his family. This went better than the plan. At the last minute he was able to get 5 days in a row off, a rarity. So, instead of my cycling down from Bar Harbor, he came up in his pickup loading me and my equipment for the trip back to New Hampshire. Our favorite thing thing to do together is tour, so he gave me 6 choices I believe. I chose a return to the New Hampshire which we'd rushed through too quickly.
Margaret, Steve, Rick, and Tom |
Lincoln, New Hampshire to Bretton Wood, New Hampshire
31.7 miles 3:23 riding time 2,051 elevation gain
These two days would be credit card touring. Tom didn't believe he was in was good enough shape for self supported touring, but I think he'd have done just fine. He did claim that in choosing Kanamangus Pass, I'd chosen the toughest of his 6 choices. He was in the lead most of the time. The route took us up a bike path with some short but really steep sections to Franconia Notch rivaling the roads of Vermont- but the steep sections weren't so long here.
Tom and Steve depart Lincoln, New Hampshire |
The stream has carved this beautiful pond into the rock- tempting to swim in the crystal clear water, but it's forbidden |
bike path up to Franconia Notch - photo by Tom |
At the top we caught a tram up a ski slope where we had some great views.
Looking back toward Lincoln, New Hampshire (from the top where the tram delivered us) |
Our bikes at the Franconia Notch Tram |
Steve outside of Munroe's Restaurant- a great find |
Day 94 5 Sep 2016
Bretton Woods, New Hampshire to Lincoln, New Hampshire
50.9 miles 5:10 riding time 3,110 elevation gain
The Bretton Woods was a little over our price range, so we stayed at the affiliated lodge across the hwy and enjoyed their hot tub and food. Steve in front of the Bretton-Woods - photo by Tom |
Tom was just a little apprehensive about the 3 climbs of this day as his responsibilities at work and parenthood keep him off his bike. The day has three passes: Crawford's Notch and Kancamagus. As we left Bretton Woods Tom announced he was after some good coffee probably in Bartlet just over the first pass.
our route through the mountains of New Hampshire - we went clockwise |
my bike at the scenic overlook where I lost Tom |
Tom and Steve at the pass just beyond Bartlett |
Tom enjoying the water before climbing Kancamagus Pass |
Tom and Steve at the top of Kancamagus |
Steve staring down the 9% grade on the East side of Kancamagus |
Tom starting down Kancamagus |
We sped on down the other side of Kancamagus to Lincoln where we got in the car for the drive to Tom's RI home where I'd spend a few days riding and visiting with Tom and his family, but I won't make my enjoyable visit a topic of the blog.
Day 95 6 Sep 2016
Cycling on Cape Cod with friends from the 1995 Southern Tier
28.5 miles 2:11 riding time
My good fortune in Tom having 5 days off at my arrival time was compounded when we learned Meredith, a friend from our 1995 Southern Tour would be taking a couple days off work and cycling on Cape Code with her sister, Suzie whom we met at the end of that 1995 tour. Meredith and Suzie set a brisk pace on this ride but did take me by some nice sights. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner afterward where we tried to catch up on the years since we've seen each other.
Meredith, Tom, Suzie, and Steve on Cape Cod |
enjoying a bike path on Cape Cod: Suzie, Meredith, and Steve. phone by Tom |
Day 97 7 Sep 2016
riding around Barrington, Rhode Island
39.3 miles 3:15 riding time
Tom had chosen a local ride with a rural feel; something that's hard to do in the city, but we had lots of variety, mostly quiet back roads with even a tiny bit of farming. This was our farewell ride and a bit melancholy for me at the end of the tour and the end of great visit with an old friend.
Day 98 8 Sep 2016
The Amtrack Experience
I'd wanted to ride the train across the country most of my adult life and set myself up for this mode of travel a few weeks ago. Cost is cheapest if tickets are bought 30 days in advance; slightly less 15 day in advance, and still more if you buy your tickets less than 14 days before departure. I've heard rumors of late trains, lost luggage and indifferent employees. Tom thought we might be able to get a quick morning ride in before driving to Boston, but we had to wrap the bicycle in bubble wrap, I had to finish packing, and I wanted to be at the train station in Boston a couple hours early. When we got there, they had no parking, so Tom dropped me, my bike, and my stuff off in front of the train station with instructions to wait for him. He had trouble finding a parking place, so eventually, I started shuttling my stuff inside the station. I'd picked up my "electronic ticket" and had figured out where the excess baggage went (my bicycle) and was headed there to buy the box when Tom showed up. Tom went to buy the $20 box, and I went to get the bike. They wouldn't sell him the box since he wasn't a ticketed passenger even though he explained the situation. When I showed up with the taken apart bike, they would sell me the box after seeing my ticket. Tom jumped in and packed the bike in the box. That baggage employee would allow no extra luggage of any kind in the bike box which threw off my packing plans. I had to repack stuff to get down to the required 3 checked bags (3 panniers 2 of which were very small) while I carried one pannier, my sleeping bag, and my handle bar bag. We made the departure time with almost no time to spare.
Tom has my bicycle boxed and ready for check-in at Boston's South Station |
Sleeping cars would have been almost another $1,000, so I rode coach. I found the other passengers and staff on the train friendly and pleasant- much more-so than the airlines. Seats had lots of leg room, and the train was less than half full, so I could take two seats to sleep. WIFI is available in the East (about an hour after leaving Boston and about an hour after leaving Albany) it was turned on. There was no WIFI west of Chicago though.
The train change in Chicago was somewhat unpleasant. The board showed my train leaving from "North Gate", but nothing was labeled as "North". Eventually I found an information desk, and they told me where to go, but still no signs and everyone was confused whether they were really in the right lines. Staff here were bossy and condescending. It turned out I was in the right line, and once on the train, the staff was again pleasant and relaxed which made a more enjoyable experience than contemporary flying. The trip is long, and I had to sleep another night and a half in the train, but I met more pleasant passengers.
The 0140 arrival in Spokane was the biggest reason not to travel by train and would be the toughest part of the trip. My bike was the first thing off the train followed by the other checked luggage. By 0230 I had my bike put together and the panniers repacked and loaded on the bike.
I have my bike put back together and ready to receive the panniers in Spokane |
Continued The Northern Tier - The return home Spokane to Boise.
Happy cycling for fun, fitness, and transportation!
Steve
Glad you made it safe and sound, it was a pleasure meeting the 4 of you. Enjoy your trip home. John and Shari
ReplyDeleteThe pleasure was ours! Thanks again for everything including our final ice cream!
DeleteCongrats - you guys did a very wonderful trip
ReplyDeleteChris
Thanks again Chris for your help getting me that new wheel! Glad you showed up on the day you did! That wheel from Havre, a town that brings back memories from for us from the Lewis-Clark route, got me to Bar Harbor though I'm planning on a new 36 spoke wheel when I get home.
Delete