Bicycling the Selkirk Loop

I've wanted to bicycle the Selkirk Loop since I first saw it on Adventure Cycling routes maybe 15 years ago, so when Christy invited me to join a group of her friends, I was eager.

Day 0:  Sun 8 Jul 2018
Post Falls, ID to Sandpoint, ID
63.3 miles, 5:53 riding time, 1972 elevation gain

Since my nephew, Troy, lives about a day's ride from the planned start point in Sandpoint, I started there a day early using Google maps and vague memories from Ride Idaho 2015

Troy sends his uncle off on the Selkirk Ride

The route was surprising pleasant from Spirit Lake, Idaho and included several miles of hard pack.  We were to meet at Christy's friends' Wendy & Sherman's at the top of a steep gravel road.  There gathered the group: Christy, Jim, Christy's former boss Amy, Vicky, and Scott who was staying in nearby motels every night doing a credit card tour while riding with us more traditional tourists.

.
Day 1: Mon 9 Jul 2018
Sandpoint, ID to Creston, BC
63.3 miles, 5:53 riding time, 1,972 elevation gain

Amy, Vicky, and I had set up our tents in Wendy & Sherman's front yard with a great view of Pend Oreille Lake while Christy and Jim rated the spare bedroom.

Vicky, Jim, Christy, Amy, & Steve from Wendy's yard

Ready to depart Wendy's: Steve, Vicky, Amy, Scott, Christy, & Jim

Scott joined us for what was easily the best breakfast of the trip which Wendy fixed: huckleberry pancakes, bacon, and eggs.  I thought Adventure Cycling had a map of the route, but that's not so.  Christy had plotted out a map to soon get us off combined hwy 2 and 95 which are busy highways here. So we enjoyed rolling hills through the timber and occasional hay fields.  These back roads led us to a closed bridge which workmen were just starting to tear out.  Jim talked them into letting us cross it, but soon the pavement turned to light gravel.  A couple people weren't comfortable riding any gravel, so we had a lunch and hiked about 1/2 mile to these falls while contemplating the route.

Vicky, Chisty, & Amy at our first waterfalls

The gravel road was providing views like these.

Christy just before the turn around

Amy just before the turn around point

With intermittent light gravel/pavement predicted for the next five miles the group had to decide whether to 1) continue on with great views in much shade, 2) backtrack adding about 10 miles onto this first and longest day of the trip, or 3) split up for the rest of the day.  We chose to back track on this hottest day of the mini-tour adding those roughly 10 miles and a killer hill climbing out of Bonners Ferry. Back on the highways traffic was heavy but began to lessen after US 2 turned east, and was pleasant after we turned off US 95.  The heat and that climb out of Bonners Ferry sapped everyone, and I, a rather slow rider, found myself in the lead much of the rest of the day.  I saw Jim's character master his tiredness as he forced himself on the remainder of the day.

Vicky making it across the Canadian border

 We were probably all ready for the day to be done by the time we reached the border, but the highway was mostly flat into Creston with a short killer hill that awaited us on the final climb to Scotty's RV Park. Most of the group pushed up a part of it.  The camp was clean and pleasant.  We met two tourists from Spokane there, the LaVoie sisters, whose campsite was in the middle of the 3 sites we had.  They made pleasant conversation and gave us a bit of info on what lay ahead.

The LaVoie Sisters from Spokane: Britta and ?

Day 2: Tue 10 Jul 2018
Creston, BC to Crawford Bay, BC
47.7 miles, 4:26 riding time, 1995 elevation gain

 Just outside of Creston, BC we caught up with Gerald part of a 16 member Adventure Cycling group doing the same ride with a few extra options over 11 days.  He made interesting conversation.  The heat of the prior day was gone, but soon a drizzle started that would last all day interrupted only by occasional hard showers. Mosquitoes were horrible this day.  Soon we caught Matt and his uncle Norm and a hard rain hit just as we were arriving at a gazebo where we sought shelter from the rain but found many mosquitoes.

Matt, Gerald, Norm, & Steve seeking shelter from the rain but finding mosquitoes waiting for us  Mosquitoes were so bad the group refused to stand sill for another photo taken with the flash manually turned on

The A/C group had planned to camp where we had rented a chalet, but after riding all day in the rain, they rented chalets.  I suspect we all missed some beautiful sights today as rains make people put their heads down and peddle without looking up although we were riding beside a beautiful lake. The chalet was a welcome treat with very comfortable beds.

Jim, Christy, Vicky, Scott, and Amy preparing to leave our chalet

.
Day 3: Tue 11 Jul 2018
Crawford Bay, BC to Nelson, BC
24.4 miles, 2:11 riding time, 1,706 elevation gain

The group was ready for a short day to fully recover from the exertion of day 1, and Nelson is a great place to spend some time. The hill between Crawford Bay and the ferry was bigger than we'd anticipated, so we barely made the departing ferry. Most of the Adventure Cycling crew was on our ferry though they had left the two assigned cooks and the sweep to catch the next ferry roughly two hours later.  Traffic after the ferry was light,  but picked up from somewhere and was heavy by the time we reached Nelson.  

Jim nearing the top on the ride to the ferry - photo by Christy

Jim & Christy on the ferry

view from the ferry

Jim, Vicky, Christy, Amy, & Scott on the ferry

The LaVoie sisters had advised us to seek a campground near downtown Nelson which turned out to be a great location although it was cramped enough no one could use his tent fly.

our crowded but much appreciated campground in Nelson, BC

looking down on Nelson's street fair - photo by Christy

We arrived early enough and on the right day to catch the downtown farmer's market & street food fair. After eating lunch at the street food fair, we had dinner at the Main Street Diner which in my opinion was the best dinner of the trip. The campground's covered pavilion was one of the cleanest I've ever enjoyed on tour.

Day 4: Wed 12 Jul 2018
Nelson, BC to Metaline, WA
57.3 miles, 5:20 riding time, 3,202 elevation gain

We faced a steep hill out of town and a busy highway though a complicated road system that on the map looked much like a large clover leaf.  Once at the top of the hill, traffic was light, and it was slightly downhill to Selmo, BC where I spent the last of my Canadian cash and then not many miles to the US border. We were on day 4 after an easy day 3.  Using mostly my no international fee credit card had worked well for most expenses plus the rough $5 in Canadian change a friend had given me.  There was a 2nd hill up to the US boarder, but this didn't really tire anyone, and the custom's agents on both sides of the border were much more friendly than those on Idaho hwy 1 where we had entered Canada. This was an incredibly beautiful day but I took too few photos. 

Vicky at a roadside waterfall about where the steep climb out of Nelson ends

I swam in the Pend Oreille River off the boat docks in Metaline, and the rest of the trip we'd be following the Pend Oreille's river valley.

Day 5: Thu 13 Jul 2018
Metaline, WA to Penny's Place on the Water near Newport, WA
55.1 miles, 5:41 riding time, 1,394 elevation gain


We picked up Scott at his "resort" a few miles south of Metaline and continued down the highway to Ione where a full grocery store gave us the option of buying dinner supplies for the stay at the rural Penny's on the Water.  The highway was so quiet this morning that it seemed to matter little when we switched to the north side of the river with its ever so quiet county roads.  

Brian a west bound x-country cyclist starting his final state on the Northern Tier

 

Soon I met Brian starting his final state in a combined Trans-Am Northern Tier route.  Oddly, no one else stopped to greet him in what looked like an excellent spot for photos.

 

Scott passing by

Amy with the Pend Oreille River in the background

my failed attempt at a close up of Jim & Christy riding by

Steve - photo by Brian

 

As the group rode by, I missed Vicky entirely.  We took a brief break at Panhandle Campgrounds where Christy and I had camped on the Northern Tier, and were then off to Usk where we had lunch in its convenience store/hamburger shack.

The Pend Oreille River from the bridge going into Usk

We thought we could avoid getting on the state highway for a mile or two at Usk.  That route led us back to another lightly graveled road which we rode until it rejoined the highway, and it was up the highway until Penny's Place on the River where we swam and rested on the beautiful lawn.

Steve after a swim - photo by Christy

Vicky enjoying the rest at Penny's on the Lake - photo by Christy

the group- Steve, Amy, Jim, Christy, Vicky, and Scott - photo by Jim

sunset at Penny's on the water

Day 6: Thu 14 Jul 2018
Penny's Place on the Water near Newport, WA to Post Falls, ID (Sandpoint for everyone else)
58.9 miles, 3:28 riding time, 2,207 elevation gain

breakfast at Penny's on the Water: Amy, Christy, Jim, Vicky, and Scott

departing Penny's on the Water, Christy, Jim, Vicky, and Amy (Scott is in the lead somewhere)

Back to the highway and into Newport, then onto Adventure Cycling's Northern Tier route which soon had us on back county roads.  There I left the group to ride into Sandpoint as I headed to Post Falls where my nephew lives.

Great trip everyone.  Thanks Christy for planning this out and inviting us all!


Happy Cycling for fun, fitness, and transportation!


Steve

Return to Moab for more mountain biking

Will and I had agreed he'd fly into SLC where I'd pick him up at the airport, and we'd drive down to Moab where he had a rugged Cannon Jackel mountain bike rented from The Bike Fiend. Will had also made reservations for our stay at the Lazy Lizard Hostel.  The Bike Fiend's website advertises being opened until 8:00 p.m., but the shop actually closes at 6:00.  Otherwise, we have nothing but compliments for them. Fortunately, we arrived early enough to pickup the bike on Monday afternoon despite this false claim.

Day 1 - 29 May 2018
Arches National Park plus Monitor & Merrimack
66.9 miles  10:56 riding time  3,789 elevation gain

Will and I both have fun on our bikes and want to see and experience everything with little regard for riding as fast as possible, so we've been known to have many a late day. Today we'd planned to ride to Arches NP via Willow Springs road (jeep road) which is normally a roughly 5 hour day, but I wanted to add in Monitor and Merrimack trails.  Will wanted to ride thru the park to Delicate Arch (the famous one on the UT license plate), so we added both and were pushing the end of daylight even as May turns to June.

Colorado River at Moab

Will 8 miles above Moab on the new paved bike path

Will climbing up the Jeep trail to Monitor & Merrimack

Steve climbing up to the Monitor & Merrimack Trails

Will entering the Monitor & Merrimack Trail (the rocks supposedly look like the ironclad Civil War ships

Will between the "ironclad ships"

Great views on the ride.  We didn't even notice these pillars until we looked back at where we'd been!

The diversion to Monitor & Merrimack was definitely worth the time.  This ride was recommended as somewhat easier than Slickrock.  It's quite a bit easier and the slickrock here is excellent.  Ridden in a clockwise direction, the sandy sections will be on the descent which might be too much if taken on the ascent.

Entering Arches NP

Being unconcerned with time as we headed to the park, I talked Will into riding the excellent trails beside the old Willow Springs Jeep road which is again opened to vehicles despite the above sign.  3 vehicles passed us, and the sign going out of the park shows motorized vehicles are allowed (in contrast to the sign in the above photo).

We had our lunch at a picnic table in the park just above where Willow Springs Rd meets the park's main highway,  and then we noticed a traffic jam going on for miles.  Park employees had stopped all traffic between us and the park's exit for at least an hour.  We decided to ride down to check out some arches which we had not seen the last time we were here.

Will in front of an arch

We stayed in that area an hour or two and realized we didn't want to be part of the traffic issues when the park service finally let people out, so we decided to return via Willow Springs jeep trail (and side trails), a decision that made this an almost 11 hour riding day.  Although it was almost 1 June, we still got back to the cabin only a few minutes before sunset. Moab Brewery is opened late for dinner though!


Day 2 - 30 May 2018
Hurrah Pass and Jackson's Loop (including Jackson or Jacob's Ladder)
37.6 miles  10:57 riding time  3,080 elevation gain

The Colorado is quiet and reflective below Moab

I'd requested Hurrah Pass and Chicken Corners - a ride Doug and I did back in 2010 that took 6 hours.  Will decided Hurrah Pass and Jackson's Loop would be a more challenging which it was.  

before we got to Hurrah Pass - 14% grade - down but we'd make up for that

Will nearing Hurrah Pass

 

the climb up Hurrah Pass begins

Steve near the top of Hurrah Pass

Will & Steve at the top of Hurrah Pass with the Colorado in the background

The descent from Hurrah Pass is a little steep and rough but fun, and that's followed by some sandy crossings.  Will's altered course showed a steep "DD" (double difficult) trail ahead so we had lunch at the bottom.

Will's after lunch nap - under a rock

Although the heat was up, the clouds were building.  Soon some concerning thunder was replaced by light sprinkles of rain which were nearly perfect to cool us down without soaking us.  Soon we faced the side of a high mesa, and Will said, "that's the trail".  There was no possibility of riding bikes over this trail, and I doubted my ability to climb the mesa even without a bike.

Will almost to the mesa's wall

 

Steve taking a well deserved break while contemplating what he's climbed with bike in hand! Don't bother trying to talk me into repeating this!

The hard part is over, but this is still a lot of work! that slight draw is our path up- photo by Will

The climb was hot and exhausting.  We were both out of water when we reached the top, but Will was promising a road that would quickly get us back to Moab.  Not so, it was a jeep trail over slickrock with many "drops".  I'll admit I didn't enjoy this section in my worn out state  Eventually we'd reach a real road, and once there passed a campground which provided WATER.

Steve refilling his water bottles - photo by Will

Day 3 - 31 May 2018
most of "The Whole Enchilada"
37.2 miles  11:02 riding time  1,709 elevation gain


The Whole Enchilada is an extension of Porcupine Ridge that starts at Burro Pass.  Unfortunately for us the shuttle service won't go that high until early June, so we were dropped off at "Hazard County" below the official start which would have included Burro Pass.

photo by Will

view of the La Sal mountain from near the drop off point

trail thru the aspens - this was a fun section - photo by Will

Steve riding thru the aspens

from the first overlook

 

Will in the classic view from Porcupine Rim

Steve from the top of Porcupine Ridge

Will starting down Porcupine Ridge with his full face helmet

Just before the above photo was taken, the Superfly 8 had a small wreck catching its front wheel in a rock nest and throwing the rider who was unhurt.  However, the Superfly 8 suffered a bent derailer.  Will used his leatherman and brute strength to make a roadside repair.  The set screws were off, so Superfly 8 couldn't use its highest or lowest gears in the back.  Steve lost confidence both in the bike and himself at this point and had a slow descent as a result, and the Superfly 8 took the next day off as the hardtail with a fully functional derailer substituted for it.

Will completes most of the "Whole Enchilada" which joins the paved bike path here at the Colorado River

Day 4 - 1 June 2018
trails north of town: Jurasic, Jasper Loop, Agate West, Chilkoot Pass, Dino Flow Little Salty, Salt Valley Rd, Klondike Bluffs Rd, & Inside Passage
25.9 miles  6:46 riding time  1,615 elevation gain

With Will's required bike turn in time of 5:00 p.m. we had to take seriously getting in well before dusk, so we headed off to some easier trails north of town.  My rump was happy to be on the Brooks saddle again though I was missing the rear shock!  Most of these trails were smooth to mildly rocky with nicely banked corners - fun!  

Steve back on his hardtail enjoying fairly smooth trails - photo by Will

Will on Steve's hardtail.  We switched bikes for more than a hour

Will chose a lunch spot up in these rocks- he's the small red spot

Will's become addicted to after lunch naps under a rock!

The day had gone according to plan through lunch time.  We decided to head down the other side of the bluff and catch Salt Valley Rd which wasn't according to plan.  It took us back to Arch's NP where we didn't want to be, but we noticed another trail- Baby's Ladder (hint avoid anything called a ladder).

Will pushing his bike up Baby's Ladder

 This took us to lots of slickrock though.

Steve on some of this slickrock - photo by Will

 

Klondike trail provided fun and interesting slickrock - photo by Will

Despite our change in today's riding  plan we had Will's rental bike back to the shop by 1645 a good 15 minutes early!  Then onto sharing photos.

The Lazy Lizard Hostel
My first impression of the hostel at $47 a night wasn't good.  The staff would have charged us an extra day had I not caught it, and as we went to look at the place, a bossy woman had taken over the kitchen and told us there'd be no room in the refrigerator for our food or drinks.  The place was so cluttered it looked dirty, and there was no room in the refrig.  People who looked liked they lived in the hostel were loitering outside the main door.  In retrospect, our little cabin was away from that, and nearly all our cabin neighbors were mountain bikers who were interesting.  The bathroom and showers were 300 ft away (through dust of the Southwest) but were very clean.  We had two bunk beds, a small desk, and enough room to squeeze 3 bikes in the cabin.  Since we were eating out every meal it was quite adequate.  

Our cabin at the Lazy Lizard

the bunk beds - photo by Will

 

Will working on his computer in our cabin

Will, it was a great 4 days!  Looking forward to the next one!

Happy cycling for fun, fitness, and transportation!


Steve