Bicycling Oregon's Succor Creek Loop

Mark, Ken, and I initially planned to ride Succor Creek Loop, a 30 mile loop with about 3,000 ft of elevation gain in the eastern Owyhee Mountains. I tried to drum up more interest in our Boise riding group and got only one person interested. Things changed. Mark and Ken wanted to RV it. Then Mark dropped out, and Ken suggested he and I go ride the route and explore the area from his RV over a few days, and he'd act as chef. I, a tent camper whose only luxury is having a 2 person tent when a 1 person tent would be adequate, couldn't turn that down! The 15 miles of gravel washboard road from outside Homedale was rough and slow in the RV, and the exit from the area would be worse, but everything else was great.

Day 1: Fri 24 May 2023

The Succor Creek Loop 

30.3 miles, 4:42 riding time, 2,787 ft elevation gain

 

Succor Creek State Park is in the bottom of a narrow rock walled canyon. Oregon is for Adventure and other websites paint a far too negative image of the campground- making it seem there's a rattlesnake under every rock and puncture weed throughout the camp that would ruin any sleeping pad. We saw no snakes and no puncture weed (albeit in late May). The park has no potable water though and was over-full by mid day Saturday of Memorial Day weekend.  The ride's first 1,000 ft of elevation gain is on a steep gravel road with great vistas climbing out of the canyon. Because my Garmin Edge had lost its satellite on the recent Wilson Creek ride, I was using it and a Garmin Fenix- just in case, and throughout the ride was glad I had both.

 

Succor Creek Canyon as we climbed out of it

Ken with Succor Creek Canyon in the background

 

As we topped out of the canyon where a dirt road intersected our gravel road, we saw a man with his 3 young daughters stopped by a flat tire on their 4 wheeler.  We stopped to briefly talk, but they knew even less of the area than we did. Neither Garmin signaled a turn here, but as we continued down the gravel road both Garmins soon accurately beeped that we were off course. A quick turn around to the dirt road fixed that, but I was loosing confidence in the Garmins as the Edge had been reading "Do a U Turn" from about 2 minutes out of the campground. Apparently when one hits the "navigate to the course beginning" he must come very close to the actual starting point; we had likely left the campground on what the Garmins considered the wrong exit. My confidence in them was dropping. Ken had taken care of almost everything, and as he's the better map reader of the two of us, I thought he was doing the paper maps while I was loading the route on the Garmins. Turns out neither one of us had paper maps or even the written "cue sheet", but a post ride review of the cue sheets shows they don't even acknowledge the two confusing intersections.

 

Ken on McIntyre Spring Rd a most pleasant section of riding

At the next intersection where the Garmin Edge was still reading "reverse course"  I was beginning to wonder if we needed to turn around to avoid getting lost. I decided to try reloading the course. This time that worked without starting the ride over. The error messages stopped, and the course appeared without the units trying to get me back to that particular starting point in the campground. I could relax without worrying that I was taking Ken out to die lost in the desert though we knew we were still dependent on the Garmins in which we didn't have full confidence. Here I did try to pawn one of the Garmins off on Ken, but he declined saying that taking one would give him some responsibility for our following the course.

 

Ken topping out on that winding climb

When we came off this hill, we found a cattle wallow at an intersection not shown in the "cue sheets" that we didn't have with us. We walked 100 ft or so down the creek where we could jump the stream and avoid that wallow, and looking back saw in the middle of that wallow an intersection that wasn't acknowledged by the Garmins with all vehicular traffic going the other way. The Garmins didn't like the 100 ft diversion to miss the wallow and read "off course" for a brief while that to us, being totally dependent on them, seemed long.  It was confusing, but as we continued on the path least taken, (the direction that no vehicles have recently gone to disrupt the hoof prints) the Garmins realized we were on course and stopped that error message.

However, the route was now a bit obscure with no evidence of vehicular traffic, but with hoof prints imbedded in the dried clay- and steep uphill. Until this point I had the advantage of a  quicker hardtail, but here the advantage switched to Ken with his full suspension bike. For maybe 3 miles I didn't enjoy the route, and with a developing bad attitude began to get tired, which apparently caused me to stop taking photos. Ken observed we were only 20 miles into a 30 mile ride, and if we kept the same avg speed, it would be dark by the time we arrived back in camp. I couldn't argue that, but according to the Garmin Edge we had climbed about 2,500 ft which gave us only about 500 ft more climbing- as long as the Garmins were leading us down the right path. My Garmin Edge habitually overstates elevation gain and would overstate today's by about 500 ft. (I've used Stava's elevation correction feature on the figures here, but I didn't have those on the ride). I knew I had good lights with me, but I didn't have a 2nd set for Ken, and I didn't believe that bringing that up would encourage him as he was tiring.

We soon rounded a corner and happily saw the Snake River Plain below us. Ken's always faster than I on the downhills, and his eagerness to return to camp sped him up even more as we descended to the Snake River Plain, but there were still hills between us and the campground.

me in front of a "gap" typical of the Owyhees. This is near the area where we first saw the Snake River Plain which ended any remaining fear of my leading Ken off to die in the desert. The downhill and knowing where I was without relying on the Garmins reinvigorated me, and I resumed having fun and taking photos

 

Light rain started as we hit Succor Creek Road, and there was still about 500 ft of climbing left which Ken would feel. My Garmin was overstating elevation gain by that 500 ft which made us believe we had almost no climbing left, but once on Succor Creek Rd I had the excitement of a horse seeing his barn while Ken was noticing every climb.

 

We were happy to see this sign

The light rain gave us this view entering into Succor Creek's Canyon

entering the heart of Succor Creek State Park as the rain stopped

We got in about 6:30. Tired though he may have been, Ken still fixed dinner. We had hot showers in this "dry campground" as well as a gas refirg, freezer (from which we enjoyed our solidly frozen ice cream!), stove, and hot running water. Scattered rain showers hit us off and on through the night, but except for a brief rain at the end of the ride, the weather had been nearly perfect with very little wind, no heat, and clear clean skies under a slowly building overcast.

Day 2: Sat 24 May 2023

Relaxing and hiking thru Succor Creek State Park

5.2 miles  Time 1:21  Elevation Gain 636'

Neither Ken nor I are sleep-in people, so we were up at dawn for a leisurely breakfast and some reading before heading off through the park on a hike in which we felt free to talk at length to all we met. Initially, this was the planned riding day, but the forecast had been for this to be a cold windy day, so to avoid that we endured yesterday's after lunch departure to spare our riding on a windy day. Although we had several strong gusts throughout the day and some early morning sprinkles, it wasn't cold; the sun was out most of the time; and at least in our narrow twisting canyon there was no steady wind.

Ken's RV. I looked out my bedroom window to those spires which at night were lighted by a full moon

We hiked up the steep road in the center of this photo

Looking down Succor Canyon from that knoll

Looking up Succor Canyon from that knoll

Looking down the canyon from higher up on the hike

After enjoying these views, we decided to hike up the creek, but high water stopped us where this photo was taken, and where the canyon suddenly narrows and likely becomes more interesting again.

High water stopped us from going further upstream

Day 3:Sun 26 May 2023

Exploring Leslie Gulch

0.5 mile walk Time 0:12

 

The plan had been to explore Leslie Gulch and ride along its Owyhee Reservoir section to determine if we'd like to do the 33 mile Leslie Gulch loop with 4,047' of elevation gain. We expected to ride a few easy miles along the reservoir but found a narrow trail with rock drops, twisting, and turning at least initially along the 13.9 miles that it follows the Owyhee Reservoir. We found the initial feet of the trail so technical that we lost interest in riding it, but in retrospect we should have hopped on the bikes and ridden it until it got better or we tired of it though my hardtail was definitely the wrong bike for this trail- which appears to be designed for hiking. The drive down Leslie Gulch was stunning, but I took only 3 photos from the RV. The photos don't capture the height of the rock formations.

view going into Leslie Gulch

these formations tower over the gulch and are bigger than they look in the photo - running almost the entire length of the gulch

We drove out on gravel roads to hwy 95 and Marsing which we found a slow tedious route though on the map that direction looks closer than the exit thru Homedale. Despite the slow entrance and exit, it was a great 3 day get-away.

Thanks, Ken, for the use of your RV, your hosting me, your sense of adventure, and your ability to tolerate the unknown- the last two qualities being necessary to enjoy an adventure!

Happy cycling for fun, fitness, and transportation!

Steve

 

Bicycling New England and Quebec Early Fall 2022

We arrived at the crowded Burlington, Vermont campground about 1:00 a.m., set up our tents, and crawled into the sleeping bags. At dawn emergency flashers came on awakening me. I called out, "Tom, do you really want to get up this early?" I knew he was starting vacation short of sleep, but he was fast asleep in his tent. The neighbors were allowing their toddler to play with the car controls, perhaps in revenge for our late arrival. I lay there for a while as lights flashed into my tent. Tom and Andrea's tent was positioned so they missed the light show, and they slept through my call.

Day 1 Sun 11 Sep 22

Burlington, Vermont to Vermont Ranch and Riverside Campground near Middlesex, VT

42.2 Miles, 5:07 riding time, 1,988 ft elevation gain

 

We moved the car to a parking garage, loaded up the bicycles, headed out for breakfast, and were riding off shortly after 11:00.
.

 

Tom and Steve finishing up the loading of the bikes - photo by Andrea

At the waterfront we joined the Cross Vermont Trail.which runs along beautiful Lake Champlain, through the sprawl of Burlington, and finally to the open countryside of Vermont.

 

Andrea, Steve and Tom at the start of Cross Vermont Trail in Burlington, VT

 

Andrea and Steve along Lake Champlain - photo by Tom

We thought we were out of the sprawl a couple of times, but then there it was again with some awkward street crossings and a bike path that might be on either the left or right side of a five lane road. It seemed like a couple hours until we were fully in the pleasant countryside, but thereafter it was proper bike lanes, pleasant back roads, gravel roads, and even a small section of single track in beautiful end of summer weather.

We're finally out of the sprawl and enjoying views like this - photo by Tom

The Vermont Countryside - photo by Andrea

Tom rides into the small section of single track on the Vermont Trail

Andrea on the small section of single track on the Cross Vermont Trail - photo by Tom

Mad River at the Vermont Ranch and Riverside Campground

Tom's loaded stead. He's longing to have his handlebar-bag back and some revision in his pannier set up! - photo by Tom

Occasionally the trail is marked with this sign

The trail is occasionally marked with signs as on the right, but signs are too few to be relied on. Andrea had planned the ride on Ride with GPS, and we three had downloaded the route onto our Garmins which occasionally disagreed creating some confusion. When there was a question where to go, Andrea's cell phone with Ride with GPS  was always reliable though keeping its battery charged presented some challenge. Our late start this morning and an arrival at camp just as the owner was having dinner delayed our check-in and kept us from a post ride swim in the river here in this beautiful private campground.

Day 2 Mon 12 Sep 22

Vermont Ranch and Riverside Campground near Middlesex to Ricker Pond State Park, near Groton, Vermont

37.1 Miles, 4:46 riding time, 1,814 ft elevation gain

We were up at dawn, had breakfast, and were out of camp by 8:00. Horses grazing at the very edge of our tents may have been the cause of our early rising, but the day started early as it should when there are only about 13 hours of light (0700-1800).

 

Tom and Andrea finishing breakfast with a view

departing the Vermont Ranch and Riverside Campgrounds (barn available for rent) - photo by Tom

It was a short ride into the state capital of Montpelier - a town big enough to be interesting yet small enough to be enjoyed from a bicycle. We spent some time on fancy coffees, outdoor equipment shopping, and grocery shopping. Then it was back to some great double track and back roads.

 

Vermont's statehouse, Montpelier, Vermont

 

Steve and Tom on the Cross Vermont Trail where the old rail bed is almost single track- photo by Andrea

Steve riding by a waterfall - photo by Andrea

Andrea and Tom in front of a small waterfall

 

Steve on some hard pan rural road of the Cross Vermont Trail

our crowded campsite at Ricker Pond State Park

 

The campsite at Ricker Pond State Park was small for two tents, but the bathrooms were clean. Tom and I got in a refreshing swim while Andrea found the water too cold.

 

Day 3 Tue 13 Sep 22

Ricker Pond State Park, near Groton, Vermont to Dave's Art Gallery Whitefield, New Hampshire

47.9 Miles, 5:45 riding time, 1,841 ft elevation gain

 

47.9 miles in almost 6 hours is a good day on gravel roads and rail trails and about the ideal amount of time on the bike while on tour. It was also a drizzly day. Our rain coats kept us dry in the light intermittent rain, but summer like temps won't return on this tour.

Vermont barn

Tom and Andrea nearing an iconic New England building

The Cross New Hampshire Trail

Andrea on the bridge into New Hampshire - photo by Tom

Tom and Andrea dropped me when I stopped to photograph the bridge over the Connecticut River which is the state line. They headed slightly off route to the Gather Together Restaurant, a great little restaurant, and fortunately a passing driver thought I looked lost in the rain and told me where my companions were.  Out of town the introduction to the Cross New Hampshire Trail wasn't good - an old rail line which allows ATV's which had torn up the trail. Disagreements in our group are rare, but Andrea and I were soon wanting to ride the parallel public road, while Tom was content on the washboards and loose gravel. We settled on a little riding on each and soon arrived in Littleton where Tom had his bottom bracket adjusted and we had lunch in the park along the river.

Tom and Andrea on a section of road between the state line and Littleton

Andrea and Steve determining whether to cross this bridge (answer no we want the obscure trail beneath it) - photo by Tom

waterwheel in Littleton, New Hampshire

town square Whitefield, New Hampshire. Its prosperous appearance is misleading. We found nothing opened but two convenience stores. - photo by Tom

Whitefield was a big disappointment. Dave's Whitefield Art Gallery and Hostel offered laundry and was a good dry place to stay although no rain fell that night. There were few other businesses in town, and the town was under a "boil water" order which meant any place that might fry a hamburger or make a fresh sandwich was closed. We settled for packaged junk food from one of the two convenience stores for both dinner and breakfast. 

Day 4 Wed 14 Sep 22

Whitefield, New Hampshire to Moose Brook State Park, New Hampshire

31.4 Miles, 4:23 riding time, 1,043 ft elevation gain

Packaged junk food for breakfast was disgusting, and as we rode out of town we saw a modern grocery store that appeared to be opened despite the "boil water order". So maybe the town wasn't as bad as the impression it had left on us, but still there are no desirable businesses in those neat old downtown buildings.  ATV's seemed to be intermittently allowed on the New Hampshire trail, but they had not torn up today's trails, and this day's ride may have been the best scenery. We each took a lot of photos of streams, lakes, and bogs, but the photos don't quite capture the beauty, so only a couple are posted.

photo by Tom

Andrea and Tom on the "Presidential Trail"

Andrea pauses to figure out how to cross the downed tree- photo by Tom

Crossing the downed tree with loaded bikes was a bit more challenging than it appears.

Steve handing his bike down to Tom - photo by Andrea

Tom and Steve have successfully crossed the downed tree - photo by Andrea

The three New Hampshirites riding the Cross New Hampshire Trail

These signs are rare. We saw only two of them while on this trail

Soon after we crossed the downed tree, we met 3 New Hampshirites credit card touring the Cross New Hampshire Trail. One of them had just lost her cell phone in the stream while attempting a group selfie with the cell phone balanced on a railing in a like manner to what Tom had just done without losing his camera.

With this short day of cycling we had a few hours in Gorham where we picked up lots of freeze dried food and other supplies Tom and Andrea had mailed ahead. We looked at the old trains, had dinner, and then with full panniers rode back to Moose Brook State Park where we spent the night. 

The Cross New Hampshire Trail was one of the highlights of the trip, but we'll be leaving it tomorrow, missing its last 25 miles between Gorham, New Hampshire and the trail's end in Bethel, Maine. 

Day 5 Thu 15 Sep 22

Moose Brook State Park to Umbagog State Park, New Hampshire

36.8 Miles, 5:10 riding time, 2,562 ft elevation gain

Most of today's first seven miles into Berlin were on a busy 4 lane highway with a good shoulder. We had a doughnut break in Berlin, crossed the Androscoggin River, and were soon on gravel logging roads.

 

 

Andrea on the wide shoulder of the 4 lane highway to Berlin - photo by Tom

Androscoggin River which divides Berlin, NH

Andrea and Steve entering the gated logging road outside Berlin - photo by Tom

Andrea on the logging road - photo by Tom

Andrea continuing the climb

typical view of the day's route - photo by Andrea

With 2,562 ft of climbing on gravel this was our toughest day so far. Signs started appearing for the Upton Village Store which became our goal for lunch. The signs even pointed out a shortcut vs our mapped out route, but we decided to play it safe and stay with the route we had on our Garmins. When we got to "Thistle Street", which sounds like we were in town, Tom insisted that I ride ahead. It turned out the rural store was still several miles away via rolling Maine roads, and I started wondering if in all the timber I had missed "town" and left my friends. Finally, I arrived, and eventually Tom and Andrea joined me at 3:38 for a late lunch on the store's veranda.  The store contains a nice little bakery and an odd assortment of snacks, but we'd violated the "eat before you're hungry" rule of cycle touring which likely added to the feelings of tiredness, and dinner would be only a couple hours later.

Tom and Steve at lunch on the veranda of the Upton Village Store - photo by Andrea

Much of the day was spent in Maine but from Upton we'd drop down a pleasant 521 feet to New Hampshire's lake side campgrounds in the cleanest state campgrounds we'd ever seen. They even had a laundry room available for their guests. Since they had no bear boxes, we kept our food there over night. However, it was too cold and windy to consider swimming. 

Day 6 Fri 16 Sep 22

Umbagog State Park, New Hampshire to Stephen Phillips Memorial Preserve, Maine

51.5 Miles, 6:25 riding time, 3,757 ft elevation gain

 

We awoke to a beautiful sunrise, clearing skies, and a cool wind. The crew was still a bit tired from yesterday's ride, and we immediately had to climb back up that 521 feet to Upton Village which was a good introduction to the day's ride which would see us climb 3,757 feet.

sunrise at Umbagog State Park , New Hampshire - photo by Tom

 

Tom has climbed the 521' back up to Upton Village

Andrea in the heavy forests of Maine

Mills Market, Andover, Maine - photo by Tom

I usually consider convenience stores beneath me with their generally over-priced selection of candy, pop, beer, and chips, but Mills Market had a small selection of groceries and a kitchen in the back where our lunch was prepared after we ordered it which made Andover a pleasant surprise in the middle of the forests of Maine.

Steve and Andrea preparing to depart the Mills Market in Andover, Maine - photo by Tom

Andover Town Hall

back in the forests of Maine - photo by Tom

Devil's Den a beautiful stream cutting into the granite rocks

SE corner of Lake Richardson

Andrea and Tom nearing the end of a long day

Although we all had lights and were prepared to ride after dark, I believe we all were sweating an after dark set up of camp at the end of the toughest ride of the trip. Andrea had planned the route and knew the back way into camp (via a closed gate) and directed us through several turns directly to our reserved spot where we arrived just as the sun was setting. I was so pleased I gave her a "high five" which she took as sarcasm because the day had been tough. No sarcasm intented. The plan showed it would be a tough day which happens on tour, and I'm up for that. The congratulations were well deserved for so many well planned details plus I was very relieved to be in before dark. 

As we set up tents on our beach for the night the wind off the lake grew to over 25 MPH.  I firmly held my tent by one corner and watched the wind inflate it like a balloon as it tried to carry it away which made set up difficult. It was completely dark by the time the tents were up and we started cooking some of those freeze dried meals we'd picked up at Gorham's post office. Sleep came easily despite the the wind which died down about midnight. I thought it was a great day cycle touring!

Our campsite on the beach as we arrived at sunset - taken before unloading the bikes - photo by Tom

Tom preparing dinner in the dark

 

Day 7 Sat 17 Sep 22

Stephen Phillips Memorial Preserve to Cathedral Pines Campground Eustis, Maine

50.8 Miles, 6:18 riding time, 2,785 ft elevation gain

We awoke to calm waters and a beautiful sunrise

 

We were up and gone early for this our last day on logging roads. Andrea had three plans in place. Preferred route 1) might be on closed logging roads. What she'd found online and from emailing bike shops was inconclusive. She also had plan 2)  which was a little longer on another logging road, and plan 3) the longest route but on the public highways. She'd also made lunch reservations at a private lodge on those roads thinking that would give us access to any roads that that might be closed to the public. When we got to the manned gate on option 1) the gate keeper was annoyed that we even asked about riding on his employer's road. He also volunteered that bicycles wouldn't be allowed on option 2). We rode on. At option 2) we found the below signs welcoming all but bicyclists. While we were debating what to do, a young man drove up in a pickup. He identified himself as the last logger to leave camp that day and suggested we'd have no problem riding these roads, so we followed his advice hoping the cranky gate keeper wouldn't send anyone after us.

Morton Cutoff Rd - note the faded no bicycling in the bottom right- photo by Tom

Andrea and Steve in the forests of Maine - photo by Tom

just before turning off Morton Cutoff for Grant's Kennebago Camp

Andrea had called ahead to make sure we could get through yet another gate leading to our lunch at Grant's Kennebago Camp. Bill was supposed to be watching for us at the locked gate, but with no one there we went under the gate and on to our hunting camp lunch reservations where we had expensive sandwiches in a nice setting.

Grant's Kennebago Camp - our lunch spot

Kennebago Lake - photo by Andrea

 

As that young logger had suggested we found no active logging nor any workers in the woods on this Saturday, but we passed logs on either side of the road ready to be loaded onto trucks. 

logging progress along the road - photo by Andrea

Soon we were back on Weyerhaueser's roads which have no anti-bicycling rules.

back on the main logging road that's open to cyclists

Steve breaking camp - photo by Andrea

As we arrived in the outskirts of Eustis, Tom had the second worst idea of the trip. "Let's ride on about one mile to camp, clean up, and walk back out to the Trails End Steakhouse", he suggested. Andrea and I quickly voted him down on that. (The worst idea of the trip will be mine in Quebec City). We had dinner, and then rode the roughly 3 miles out to Cathedral Pines Campgrounds sparing us a 6 mile hike that Tom's suggestion would have given us! It was laundry night in the clean facilities of this nice flat campground.

 

Day 8 Sun 18 Sep 22

Eustis, Maine to Manoir d'Orsennens, Lac Megantic, Quebec

45.4 Miles, 5:04 riding time, 1,421 ft elevation gain

 

The Pines Market, a pleasant surprise. Although it looks like a convenience store, it's an old fashioned general store with fresh meats, hardware, produce, a good selection of work clothes, and its own kitchen.

We had breakfast in camp, so when we stopped by The Pines Market we couldn't take full advantage of this surprisingly old fashioned and interesting general store we found hidden behind a contemporary convenience store front. 

 

Andrea had been watching the forecast so had cancelled our campground reservations tonight in favor of a motel because rain was predicted. We'd ridden through several drizzly days, but today would be a consistent rain that left us drenched by the time we reached the Canadian border where on the US side  we found shelter in a small convenience store.

 

Flagstaff Lake from The Pine's pic-nic area. Rain is headed our way.

 

Andrea in the rain

Tom in the rain

Steve in the rain - photo by Tom

The rain let up briefly while we enjoyed a short break at a roadside table along this stream- photo by Tom

The rain returned with a vengeance

We were wet and cold when we arrived at the border crossing where a small convenience store offered shelter and do-it-yourself hot drinks. We left puddles of water on the benches where we had sat. The rain turned to drizzle as we entered Canada, but the cold and wetness apparently dampened our desire for photos as we took no more until our arrival in Lac Megantic, Quebec.

Bicycling in Quebec - Inn to Inn

Our daily mileage will increase in Quebec where real camping was hard to find, so we switched from self supported touring to "inn to inn" touring except we continued to carry our camping gear and the freeze dried meals. The mountains of Maine came to an end almost immediately, replaced by steep foothills for the first two days in Quebec.

Manoir d'Orsennens our comfortable shelter for the night -photo by Tom

Tom and Steven enjoying their delivered dinner - photo by Andrea

We parked our bicycles in the Manoir d'Orsennens' basement and ordered our Italian dinner delivered. The rain stopped as we arrived in Lac Megantic and didn't return during the night, but I was still glad for a warm place to dry myself and my clothes and an early enough arrival to look around town and enjoy the evening.

 

Day 9 Mon 19 Sep 22 

Lac Megantic, Quebec to Hotel La Cache du Golf, Beauceville, Quebec

64.0 Miles, 7:23 riding time, 2,861 ft elevation gain

 

We had several miles of steep long rolling hills before hitting the Chaudiere River Valley where the gravel road along the river remained rolling enough that we eventually switched to the highway.

Andrea on the rolling hills of southern Quebec

Steve and Andrea as the rolling hills continue- photo by Tom

Andrea as the hills continue - photo by Tom

Do  these hills ever end? Steve nearing their end - photo by Tom

along the Chaudiere River, Quebec - photo by Andrea

another view along the Chaudiere River Valley - photo by Tom

 

These big silos that Steve is approaching indicate we're in dairy country - photo by Tom

The Chaudiere River with bike path (Route Verte) at its side with Tom partly in the photo

entering Saint Georges, Quebec - photo by Tom

We got back on a bike path as we entered Saint Georges, a town that appeared to be large enough to be interesting and small enough to see from a bicycle, but we rode on to the rural Hotel La Cache du Golf on the top of a steep hill marked as an 11% grade up about 500 feet. Although Andrea had called ahead verifying they had an in house restaurant, when we arrived, it was closed, so we ordered dinner delivered again.

Day 10 Tue 20 Sep 22 

Beauceville, Quebec to Au Petit Hotel Quebec City, Quebec

61.6 Miles, 7:05 riding time, 1,568 ft elevation gain

 

After a rapid descent down those 500 feet we found our way back onto the bike path. There were no signs warning of construction, but the paved path soon became gravel, and then we reached a bridge under construction. We were able to cross it by stepping from cross beam to cross beam, and for a short while the gravel path continued.

Steve departing the Hotel La Cache du Golf - note the downhill percentage - photo by Tom

 

Tom and Andrea on a section of Route Verte under construction

Then the bike path ended in the brush. We could turn around back-tracking for about a mile or maybe we could forge through to a farmer's "road" that connected to the highway. Tom led out and announced the farmer's road was rideable.  I followed, but the path was slick with recently spread fresh manure and urine. I fish tailed and thought how disgusting it would be to fall in this slick muck wondering how Tom and Andrea with little mountain bike experience would fare.

 

Steve riding through the manure/urine mixture

 

Then I heard Andrea holler She'd gone down in it getting her bike and panniers covered in fresh wet manure. I was amazed how little was on her clothing or body, but I believe she considered it significant.

 

Andrea's just gotten up from her crash in the fresh manure. Note the set jaw that may indicate anger.

 

Andrea who had never before fallen in manure was very unhappy. I write from the perspective of a small farmer/rancher's son who has some experience although we never spread fresh manure on the fields. Luckily, within a half hour of the "wreck" we crossed an unmanned "dump station" where we could all hose off our smelly bikes. Tom's and my bikes had been splashed with manure, but that was minor compared to Andrea. Had an off season "camper" not shown up to use the dump station we could have spent another 10 minutes cleaning up. 

Andrea happily washing the manure off her bike and panniers just 30 minutes after the fall

 

back on a well designed section of the Route Verte

We felt clean enough to eat out when we arrived in Sainte-Marie and stumbled across Le Maison l'Erable. We weren't sure what we ordered, but the food was excellent and the waitress took special care of us non French speaking customers.  (Andrea speaks excellent French but is unaware of local names of dishes equivalent to a "Billy burger". 

La maison de l'erable - a pleasant surprise - photo by Tom

Then on to Quebec City via La Route Verte.

 

view of the St Lawrence from the Quebec Bridge - photo by Andrea

The walkway on the Quebec Bridge was a bit too narrow for our loaded touring bikes, so we pushed most of the way across it. It was dusk by the time we were off the bridge and on the wide bike lanes that lead into Quebec City, so we turned on our lights as we rode into the old city. 

Day 11 Tue 21 Sep 22 

layover day Quebec City, Quebec

 

on the way to breakfast - photo by Tom

I mentioned Tom had the second worst idea of the trip back in Maine. The worst idea of the trip was mine here- suggesting we take a bus tour of the city. I thought it would be a quick and fairly cheap tour of the old city which would let us know the sights we wanted to check out more thoroughly. Wrong! it was a $40 tour of two hours driving through the old and new cities. Fortunately we got off shortly after leaving the old city- minus $40 each, but our tickets did allow us to catch a similar bus back to the old city. We spent most of the remaining day walking around.

 city street scene - photo by Tom

old city street scene - photo by Andrea

old city street scene

Tom and Steve enjoying the best pastry of the trip - photo by Andrea

Au Petit Hotel, our home for two nights

Day 12 Thu 22 Sep 22 

Quebec City, Quebec to Gite de la Tour, Sainte-Anne-de-la Perade, Quebec

62.3 Miles, 7:08 riding time, 1,804 ft elevation gain

 

I thoroughly enjoyed my introduction to Quebec City and felt a bit sorry for myself as we rode off in the drizzle. Our route out of town took us via wooden steeps that were slick with rain and the side bicycle ramp was even slicker serving as a skid. Getting the loaded touring bikes down was a two person job. We found another great pastry shop on the edge of Quebec City's sprawl. Black clouds seemed to hang over Quebec City as they remained in our rear view mirrors all day as we rode away from the storm.  The drizzle hitting us stopped by the edge of Quebec City.

Steve and Andrea departing Quebec City in the drizzle - photo by Tom

the wet wooden bike ramps were slick, so when the bikes' brakes were engaged the bike tires became skids

2nd best pastry of the trip at Bonlangerie Bonnean- photo by Andrea

Steve outside the sprawl of Quebec City - photo by Tom

Andrea and Tom enjoying the open countryside

Eglise Saint-Charles-Borromee, Grondines, Quebec  every village seems to have a beautiful stone Roman Catholic Church

houses built on the edge of the road in every small village- I believe this is entering Sainte-Anne de-la-Perade - photo by Tom

 

Gite de la Tour, Sainte-Anne-de-la Perade, Quebec our home for the night

The Gite de la Tour has a homey old fashioned hotel feel, and was my 2nd favorite overnight stop despite the bathroom being down the hall. Manoir d'Orsennens remains my favorite overnight stay.

Day 13 Fri 23 Sep 22 

Sainte-Anne-de-la Perade, Quebec to Day's Inn Bertherville, Quebec

74.1 Miles, 8:03 riding time, 787 ft elevation gain

 

It was a flat pleasant ride into Trois-Riviers, Quebec's fourth largest city although our route into the city made it feel like entering a small town. The downtown area was large and spread out, but we found no opened restaurants around 11:00 a.m. Just outside of the downtown core we found Le Sacristain, a sandwich shop that was opened but served no fresh breads until 12:00 noon sharp. As we left town, it felt like a city. The route was pleasant on back streets, but it took some time to reach rural farm land. By the time we reached our Days Inn in Bertherville, it felt like we were in modern 5 lane suburbia.

 

 

Andrea entering the outskirts of Trois-Riviers, Quebec

Tom in front of Le Sacristain, a former church turned sandwich shop where we had lunch in Trois-Riviers

The sun finally came out, but Steve and Andrea still have their coats on in mid afternoon - photo by Tom

Day 14 Sat 24 Sep 22 

Bertherville, Quebec to Hotel M, Montreal, Quebec

55.7 Miles, 6:13 riding time, 745 ft elevation gain

 

Today's ride was mostly on well designed bike paths through urban sprawl of greater Montreal. Andrea spotted  L'eufrier, a breakfast and lunch shop where we thought we'd get a pastry. We weren't sure what any of the menu items were, but instead of a snack as we intended, we ended up with heavy 2nd breakfasts which served as lunch. The route through the urban sprawl into downtown Montreal was surprisingly pleasant.

 

Sometimes we weren't sure what we were ordering. Here's Andrea's 2nd breakfast - french toast with bananas and nutella -photo by Andrea

 

Steve on the bike path in suburbia - photo by Tom

street view of old town Montreal

Day 15 Sun 25 Sep 22 

Montreal, Quebec to the COVID Motel, Saint Jean-sur Richelieu, Quebec

32.77 Miles, 3:59 riding time, 728 ft elevation gain

We'd planned today as a layover day in Montreal followed by a 77 mile day tomorrow, but rain was again in the forecast for that long day, and we thought getting across the bridge and through the sprawl would be slow, so we took a half day to view the old city and headed off for Saint Jean-sur Richelieu.

the bike lanes on the Jacque Cartier Bridge

view of the St Lawrence from the Jacque Cartier Bridge

Looking back at Montreal

the canal and bike path we followed most of this short day

bike path and canal later in the day - photo by Tom

The route over the Jacque Cartier Bridge and through the outskirts was surprisingly easy starting out along an abandoned railroad corridor and then most of the day beside canals. A little drizzle caught us late in the day, but the predicted rain didn't hit us. When we we were assigned rooms at the Auberge Harris Motel it was in a building off from the rest of the small complex. My companions took the downstairs room and I the upstairs room. When we gathered later, every downstairs door except theirs then had a sign posted in French, "QUARANTINED, COVID-19". This was the motel and the wing where the local government kept its indigent COVID patients who freely moved part of their rooms' furniture outside where they smoked and hung out, and the signs went up only after we were in our rooms! Momentarily, I felt sorry for my companions; then I realized the 2x4" planks of my balcony provided almost no protection from downstairs germs floating up. Unhappy as we were to be in the COVID Motel, we found a great Greek restaurant nearby for dinner.

Day 16 Mon 26 Sep 22 

The COVID Motel, Saint Jean-sur Richelieu, Quebec to Shore Acres Inn North Heroes, Vermont

49.7 Miles, 5:38 riding time, 784 ft elevation gain

We skipped the motel's free breakfast in the morning thinking we could avoid the COVID customers. We didn't find a restaurant as we rode out of town, so we had breakfast from a small grocery store. It was a drizzly morning, but no hard rain hit us.

Andrea and Steve departing the COVID Motel - photo by Tom

Andrea and Steve about an hour out of town - photo by Tom

Tom 11 kilometers from St Valentin

La Route Verte is generally well signed

Steve and Andrea beside a ripe corn field - photo by Tom

Railroad crossing in the heart of Saint Valentin

crossing the Richelieu River near Monteregie, Quebec

crossing from an island on the Richelieu River

Steve nearing the USA - photo by Tom

Tom between corn fields

Andrea and Steve crossing back into the USA - photo by Tom

Once we crossed the border, the drizzle stopped. We had to get on busy US Hwy 2 for a while but then turned off onto smaller roads that followed Lake Champlain's shoreline. Then to avoid the wind, we returned to hwy 2.

Andrea with Lake Champlain in the background

Heroes Welcome General Store, Bakery, & Cafe and post office, North Heroes, Vermont

We spent the night at Shore Acres Inn where we also had supper.

Day 17 Tue 27 Sep 22 

North Heroes, Vermont to Burlington,  Vermont 

25.6 Miles, 2:52 riding time, 564 ft elevation gain

 

We had a little bit of highway 2 before getting on a bicycle path that led to a causeway for bicycles that connected this peninsula in Lake Champlain to Burlington. The causeway has about a 20 ft break in it which must be crossed in a bicycle ferry. Andrea had made reservations weeks ago for us to catch this ferry at 11:00, and we arrived about 20 minutes early. She had all the details right!

 

Tom on the bike path leading to the causeway

Andrea on the causeway nearing the bicycle ferry- photo by Tom

 

The bicycle ferry unloading a group headed north

Steve and Andrea on the causeway south of the bicycle ferry

Andrea nearing the end of the causeway- photo by Tom

Island Line Trail leading back into downtown Burlington, VT

The entry into the city was easy on a smooth bicycle path that led to the city's waterfront. Thanks Tom and Andrea for a great vacation! 771 miles, in 17 days with 27,853 ft of elevation gain.

Happy cycling for fun, fitness, and transportation!

Steve