Bicycling 800 Miles to my 50th Class Reunion

Although I'd had no interest in attending my earlier class reunions, I found myself wanting to go to the big 50th reunion on my bicycle. Then the virus struck and the chances of having it went down, and to make things worse we had planned to have it in Washington State with its severe lockdown. That resulted in a cancellation, and the desire to bicycle to this reunion began to grow in me

As things began opening up in the spring of 2021, it looked like the reunion might be just a year late, so I picked up my training plan, and once that was going well, I decided this would be the year, and I'd go up through Oregon partly on the Trans Am route though that would be tougher than a ride through Idaho. When I charted this out on Google Maps it showed a one day elevation gain of 9,144 ft between Halfway and Enterprise, Oregon which I didn't think I could handle. Friends encouraged me to go for it, and I made contingent plans to camp in the forest but would have found those otherwise enticing campgrounds dry!

Day 1: Saturday 12 June 2021

Boise, Idaho to Vale, Oregon

90.5 miles, 8:38 riding time, 1,906' elevation gain 

 

Zig-zagging with the section lines through SW Idaho out to Adrian, Oregon is a route I do annually, but it's been a few years since I went all the way to Vale- a route I've modified on occasion to give me two back-to-back centuries. I thought my memory would take me there, but it took me to the first ride I ever did to Vale, and that route washed out years ago. It is now 3 or 4 miles of gravel. It did connect to the paved route I intended, so I was soon back on pavement. The final leg of the day took me over Keeney Pass which was hot and dry

 

The Snake River at Marsing

. 

Oregon pride not evident in this "welcome" sign

Sunset Market like so many small town and rural stores is permanently closed eliminating a stop I used to enjoy

 

Vale's getting close with this monument at the top of Keeney Pass

 

I arrived in Vale hot and tired but was greeted with enthusiastic shouts by Hassan Alshawi, a Saudi student studying in Kansas and taking the summer off to bicycle tour across the country. He's doing the Trans Am but taking that "shortcut" across southern Idaho's desert. He's doing daily You Tubes, but between the language issue and my lack of familiarity with You Tube, I'm not creating a hotlink at this point. I wanted a real dinner and Hassan had settled for a convenience store "dinner" so we separated. The restaurant I've always liked in Vale has reduced its hours to 1000-1900. As I was finishing dinner their door was locked promptly at 7:00 p.m. In these days of enhanced unemployment benefits, they can't find employees for a 2nd shift! Luckily for me Hassan showed up later at the campgrounds and we enjoyed touring conversation for the evening and next morning.

Hassan Alshawi is a fun loving enthusiastic young cyclist I enjoyed camping with the first night

Day 2: Sunday 13 June 2021

Vale, Oregon to Unity, Oregon

68.5 miles, 7:22 riding time, 3,192' elevation gain

I didn't like leaving my enthusiastic and fun companion, but the summer heat was telling me to get on the road early, so after a convenience store breakfast with Hassan (nothing else was opened), we said our good-byes and I was off to Unity. There was a new cafe in Willowcreek which is close to Vale, but the old stores in Brogan and Jamieson were gone. Fortunately, Brogan still has a city park with trees and a water fountain! I thought I could find similar shade and water in Ironside as the temps grew, but neither was available. I really wanted a break after Brogan Hill, but no shade and no water were to be found!

It's a hot climb

 

There's some descending before Ironside where I remember on my first ride across Oregon in the late 70's a nice little store and post office. Neither survive and I could find no shade nor even a welcoming water spigot. By the time I reached El Dorado Pass I had one water bottle left which I was rationing.

Trees are appearing in the distance by the time I reach the top of Eldorado but still no shade, and I'm thirsty!

Fortunately, it was only a few miles from Eldorado Pass to Unity where Hassan had recommend I stay at the convenience store/campgrounds/filling station. Although there was plenty of elevation gain today at 3,192', with the early start and the 7:22 riding time, it felt like a short day compared to day 1. I enjoyed water, shade, ice cream, and their WIFI.  Use of the washing machine and even detergent were included in my $10 camping fee.

 

My home for the night, a $10 camp site in Unity with pic-nic table and WIFI

 

 

Day 3: Monday 14 June 2021

Unity, Oregon to Baker, Oregon

52.0 miles, 5:25 riding time, 2,238' elevation gain

Hassan's recommendation was good and I enjoyed my stay here, but although the convenience store severed a real breakfast, it didn't open until 0800 Pacific Time, so I fixed a quick breakfast and was on the road before 0700 Pacific Time. Four or five miles down the road was Unity Lake with a $8 hiker/biker site where I had planned to stay, so I rode through the park to check it out. Without WIFI or a store of any kind, I was glad I'd stayed in town though a cool swim would have been a real treat yesterday afternoon.

Unity Lake from the camping area

 

The campsite not chosen; a good alternative for those carrying dinner and breakfast supplies

The broad valley briefly turns into this canyon which is dammed creating Unity Lake and providing irrigation below.

The canyon soon opens up to another broad irrigated valley growing mostly hay and pasture

After following the irrigated valley for a few miles the route turns to go over a recently burnt  mountain which provided most of today's climbing.

 

Looking down at the burnt mountain I'm crossing

Both sides of the mountain are burnt, but the Baker side is so ugly I didn't photograph it!

I was fortunate to meet and camp with Hassan on night one and the owners of the grounds in Unity

Judith host and touring cyclist

were very pleasant, but I don't like too much alone time when riding solo, so I had sought out a "Warmshowers" host in Baker. It was Judith who lives on the edge of downtown. When I was
four doors down from her place, two pedestrians, John and Kristina, stopped me and introduced themselves. They were two tourists staying at a motel a block from Judith's. They also recommended I check out the new bike hostel on the edge of downtown Baker. It had a couple cyclists staying there, but I had a reservation with Judith. She has a great set up for a Warmshower's host - a basement with a bedroom and bath. She didn't want to go to dinner with us, so I walked over to John and Kristina's motel, and we went out for Mexican food.  They started in Missoula and had planned to ride to the coast, but Kristina was going to quit- catching a bus here in Baker while John rides on.

 

Day 4: Tuesday 15 June 2021

Baker, Oregon to Halfway, Oregon

68.2 miles, 5:25 riding time, 2,238' elevation gain

I eventually found the Oregon Trail Motel and Restaurant that Judith had recommended, but it was closed. Oregon isn't fully opened after the virus shutdown and the generous unemployment benefits that pay more than work! As I left the Oregon Trail's parking lot, I was sure I saw a touring cyclist. I shouted, but got no response and decided the panniers were light enough it might just be a bicycle commuter. As I crossed under the freeway I found an opened cafe and had breakfast. I checked out the Baker City Lewis-Clark Interpretive Center but found it opens only later in the morning. I saw fresh bicycle tracks there and every other time I pulled off the highway. 

I was planning a simple lunch of PB&J and fruit in Richland, but as I looking for a store, I spotted that bike I'd seen this morning. Pam was inside a cafe enjoying a salad and tater tots. We talked until her husband joined us having had his lunch in the other cafe. I wanted to ride with them, so I skipped lunch and bought an orange at the town's grocery store.The hill between Richland and Halfway contained most of the day's elevation gain, and I noticed they took it slow resting at certain goals. I told myself that's the only way I'll make it up tomorrow's 9,144' elevation gain!

Pam and Jim on the climb nearing Halfway, Oregon

Jim and Pam at dinner

We rode into Halfway where they had a motel reservation. My Warmshower hosts,

Tom & Linda, excellent Warmshowers hosts

Tom and Linda, had to drive to Joseph that day, so wouldn't be home, but told me to set up my tent and shower, so I did that and headed back to town to have dinner with Pam and Jim. As I headed back to town I met Tom and Linda on the road. Service at the "Main Place" in Halfway was horrible. 90 minutes after ordering we still hadn't received our salads, and while I was enjoying my conversation, I wanted to get back to my Warmshowers hosts. Pam then ran down a waitress, and cold food was soon delivered without the salads! I enjoyed Jim & Pam so much that I was sorry to leave them, but eager to get back to my hosts. They were wonderful hosts! I apologized for my late arrival, and we enjoyed conversation until dark fell. They'd ridden several Cycle Oregons that I had ridden, and we had much to talk about. They were very encouraging about the 9,144' of elevation gain Google predicted for me tomorrow, and seemed sure that estimate was wrong though they got the same info when they Googled it. They'd ridden it and didn't believe it was that difficult. They served a great breakfast the next morning, and I was off, sad to leave such excellent hosts. I told them it felt like leaving relatives which was true.

Day 5: Wednesday 16 June 2021

Halfway, Oregon to Enterprise, Oregon

84.2 miles, 10:19 riding time, 6,549' elevation gain 

 

I was hoping to meet Jim and Pam on the way out of town, but I had no such luck. If they had "service" like we had last night, they might not get out of town until noon, and their climb up to Council, Idaho is also significant. The morning was cool and pleasant still following the Trans Am until I turned off on a paved forest service road to Joseph.

Following the Trans Am route toward Hell's Canyon

I followed this stream up most of the way to the first summit

This was the "big day" the day I'd feared and which had almost intimidated me so that I nearly didn't ride to the reunion. The climb started as soon as I left the Trans Am. I was soon in the cooler forest. Tom and Linda had told me there would be three summits to cross, and climbing the first would be the most significant. It was. At the top of the first summit I met four supported riders from Portland and talked for 15 minutes or more. There were supposed to be two riders behind them whom I never saw, but within two minutes of leaving them I met another group of four self-supported riders! It was a group that had asked to stay at my place under the Warmshowers program that I had to turn down because I'd be on this tour. They were young, enthusiastic, and very flexible in their planning. They took a photo of my plan as they realized riding the Weiser River Trail on road bikes likely wasn't feasible. Both of these groups reported that the upcoming campgrounds were "dry", but they had stayed there last night and boiled river water to drink. Meeting these two groups at the first pass raised my spirits I realized I had 3,268' of my 9,144' completed, but that's only about 36% of the scheduled climb!

 

 

Progress seems slow, but it's a beautiful ride

 

The four supported Portland riders doing much of my route in reverse

 

The four self-supported riders from Portland I met moments later who had requested to camp in my yard

The downhill on the blacktop was quick and fast. I checked out a couple of the campgrounds along the Imnaha River and verified they were dry as I enjoyed my lunch of PB&J sandwich and Fig Newtons. I had two water bottles left and two passes to climb with increasing temperatures as the sun was reaching its high point for the day.  It was hot, but it didn't take so long to reach the top of the 2nd pass. I now had completed 5,271' of my supposed 9,144' (almost 58% of the scheduled climb).  A pickup stopped, congratulated me on the climb, gave me a cold water, and wished me luck. I had one water bottle left as I thought about the last pass. However, it wasn't a distinctive pass but a series of rollers. At the top of the 3rd summit I had climbed 5,967'. 

 

I was ready for the day to end when I reached the junction of the road between Joseph and Imnaha. The rollers continued all the way into Joseph where I had climbed 6,407'.  I hadn't considered camping at Wallowa Lake State Park because it is always full, but I forgot Oregon State Parks have hiker/biker sites! So I rode on down to Enterprise arriving about 2000 hours. I thought I had an hour in which to order food and eat. I found Heavenly's Hamburgers which seemed to be a step above a drive-in which was just what I was looking for. The place was nearly full, but almost everyone was finishing. I sat down and the place emptied out. The staff immediately set about cleaning the tables and ignoring me. Eventually, I called down a server and asked for a large water. I was told they'd keep the regular sized glass full. Ten minutes later I still had no water. I made a bit of a fuss, got my small water, and placed my order. At my insistence my water glass was eventually refilled. 45 minutes after ordering (in a nearly empty restaurant), I asked about the status of my order. The waiter confessed he "forgot" to turn it in to the cook! My hour for eating was up and dusk was falling, so I said "forget it, I'll head to the deli at Safeway." I found a Subway nearby, so I ordered a cold sandwich which I threw in my panniers and rode on out to the Log House RV Park where I ate it. There I met Joel and "Early-to-Bed", two tourists camped almost in its gates. Both were friendly, but "Early-to-Bed" was in bed by the time I finished checking in. After my shower, Joel and I talked for a while and I learned they were almost on my route but going the opposite direction. As darkness fell, I crawled into my tent happy that I was there before nightfall and I'd made this difficult day a success without camping in the forest!

Day 6: Thursday 17 June 2021

Enterprise, Oregon to Lewiston, Idaho

89.3 miles, 10:00 riding time, 4,938' elevation gain 

 

I was ready for a big breakfast after yesterday's long ride and meager dinner. The owner of the Log House RV Park recommended Friends Restaurant a breakfast and lunch place, and it was everything Heavenly Hamburgers wasn't. Food was great and service prompt, so I didn't mind the ride back into town. I stopped by the RV park and said good-bye to Joel and "Early-to-bed" who were having a leisurely morning before a not so difficult day of riding making me a bit envious though I like early departures especially on hot days.

Yesterday was the day I'd worried about since planning this adventure, but "Rattlesnake Grade" is long and tough. I'd ridden it several time unloaded and knew it to be difficult, but I was glad I didn't awake tired and groggy for the 2nd toughest day of the tour.

Looking back on the Wallowa Mountains. Yesterday I was riding just below that snowline!

Steve at the Snake River overlook

There's a little more climbing to the overlook than I remembered, but from there it's downhill to Brogans where I decided to have lunch just before heading up Rattlesnake Grade. I usually can eat a meal in the middle of a ride, but about half way up Rattlesnake Grade my tummy started hurting, only when I breathed deeply, but that's the only way to breath when climbing Rattlesnake! 

Looking down on the lower portion of Rattlesnake Grade

 

Because of my tummy, I allowed myself a quick break every half mile on the second half of the climb. There are many pullouts on this grade. Eventually, I reached Fields Springs State Park where I took a longer break, enjoyed drinking its wonderful cold water, and then began coasting down to Lewiston without stomach issues! I arrived hot and tired nearly at dusk again but was grateful I wasn't exhausted. Throughout the three days of reunion activities I stayed with good friends who soon had me fed with generous and tasty leftovers. They cooked extra knowing I'd arrive sometime that evening.

Just to prove I carried dockers and a dress shirt in my over-loaded panniers, here's a photo from my reunion:

I'm in the back left corner of the photo of the Highland High Class of 1970 celebrating 50 years since graduation

The Return: Bicycling Lewiston to Boise 427 miles

 

Day 7: Monday 21 June 2021

Lewiston, Idaho to Grangeville, Idaho

88.2 miles, 10:19 riding time, 6,220' elevation gain

I had two contradictory ideas in my mind as I left Lewiston:1) cut back to the usual 60 miles a day most tourist strive for and 2) get home by Sat 26 Jun for a friend's memorial. The ideas were mutually exclusive! My route to Ferdinand would be on the Lewis-Clark route and I hoped to meet cyclists. A heat wave was developing, but I was up the Old Winchester Grade before the day got too hot. A pleasant surprise was finding new blacktop from the top of the grade into town instead of the old patches on patches highway! I'd tentatively planned to over-night in Winchester, a popular over-night location for cyclists on the Lewis-Clark route, but I met no cyclists at noon which is a little early for that, and it's popular restaurant was closed, so I ate my PB&J and decided to head on out to Grangeville where I'd rejoin the Trans Am route and maybe camp with other cyclists. I enjoyed a mild tailwind, but traffic on US 95 was worse than I remembered. At Cottonwood I got on East Rd and then Old Hwy 7 back roads which took me to the edge of Grangeville, and I camped at the Lion's Club park there which has an area set up for free camping for cyclists. No cyclists were there either, and this park has no shower, so I found a garden hose to take off the worst of the road grime. With this long day accomplished, I knew I could get to the memorial without undue effort.

 

The Old Winchester Grade climbs from the dry lowlands up to the timber on Craig Mountain offering some great vistas

 

Farmland meets the forest as the climb continues

With brief periods in the forest near the top

across Idaho's fertile Camas Prairie to Grangeville

Day 8: Tuesday 22 June 2021

Grangeville, Idaho to Riggins, Idaho

50.2 miles, 5:19 riding time, 1,909' elevation gain

Lorraina, solo on the Trans Am

I found no desirable breakfast spot in Grangeville at 0515 Pacific Time, so I settled for a convenience store frozen sausage sandwich heated in a micro-wave and a muffin and headed out to the Old Whitebird Grade which I started up before encountering a "road closed ahead" sign. They diverted me down a gravel road back to US 95 with its rumble strip. Sometimes I'd fit between the rumble strip and the guard rail, sometime not which forced me to the edge of the traffic lane on this highway with many truck not eager to give me space in their "slow lane". Concentrating on not being forced into the guard rail on a steep and busy grade was no fun, so I was glad to finally reach the top where I could soon return to the lower section of the old grade. There I met Lorraina, a solo rider riding from Baker to the coast, who had in the cool of the morning nearly reached its top from the difficult side. When I took her photo, she suggested she take my photo with my camera, so here's a photo of me on Old Whitebird Grade. I warned her about the closure on  the top section of the old grade.

Steve on the Old Whitebird Grade

I was invigorated by reaching the top after struggling to stay off the guard rails, talking to Lorraina, and starting down this great downhill!

 

Some of the switchbacks on the Old Whitebird Grade

The Salmon River Canyon is a hotspot and the heat was building throughout the Northwest, so I had a morning ice cream in Whitebird and rode off. I decided to see a family friend between Whitebird and Riggins, and they fed me lunch. I briefly met Mark, riding the opposite direction on the Trans Am, and just before Riggins I met Sara and Dominic a very pleasant and enthusiastic young couple doing the Trans Am and spent 15 minutes talking to them in a large pull out. I have a cousin in Riggins and enjoyed staying with them and catching up since I hadn't seen them since the virus struck.

 

Dominic and Sara outside of Riggins

 

Day 9: Wednesday 23 June 2021

Riggins, Idaho to Council, Idaho

61.3 miles, 7:13 riding time, 3,051' elevation gain

 

My cousins slept in, and I had another frozen sausage sandwich at the convenience store, and then began the ascent up to New Meadows along the Little Salmon River. In New Meadows I met a solo Trans Am rider, and then ran into this group of five young people, a group that had grown along the way. I talked to them through their lunch at Subway. They're mostly just out of high school and even in this heat are having trouble getting themselves up for an early start which they know is necessary.

Five young adults riding the Trans Am together,. The group has grown since leaving the coast.

They were referring to US 95 as "the freeway", and it was so busy with trucks that I understood why. I haven't seen so many logging trucks since the 70's, and they seemed to be hauling logs from Winchester all the way back on Craig Mountain to somewhere south of Payette, while other trucks were hauling logs in the opposite direction. I thought I'd lose some of those logging trucks at the Tamarack Mill, but no such luck. I arrived in Council planning to stay at the Trailside RV and Bicycle Park, but I met my cousin's wife and daughter in the local grocery store and was invited home with them for dinner, another pleasant visit, and catching up since the virus struck.

 

Wanda, Denava, Nichole, and Hal my hosts for the night

   

Day 10: Thursday 24 June 2021

Council, Idaho to Letha, Idaho

90.9 miles, 9:06 riding time, 2,602' elevation gain

My cousins left out oatmeal with many fixing for my early breakfast, and cousin Hal arrived from his night shift just before I left, so we had some more conversation. I rode by the campground looking for cycling campers but didn't spot any bikes. 

My goal for the day was Weiser which would have been at mile 52, but it was only 1400 hours when I arrived and there was no shade on a hot day, so setting up camp early didn't sound good. I decided to ride on to Payette where I realized it was another 20 miles to Cousin Judy's, so I did another 90 mile day. It's a good thing it's close to mid-summer's day with plenty of light! I enjoyed dinner with Judy, a shower, and a big comfortable bed.

The Snake River near Payette on a quiet road leading into town

The Payette River near Letha

Day 11: Friday 25 June 2021

Letha, Idaho to Boise, Idaho

51.8 miles, 5:36 riding time, 1,614' elevation gain

 

Cousin Judy sent me off with a big breakfast and I finished on a route I know well and ride almost monthly. It was a fun and challenging trip. With a little planning for a dry camp along the Imnaha River, the route north is one to consider, or maybe a circle from LaGrande to Enterprise, Halfway, Baker, and back to LaGrande. I believe that would be the easier direction and the direction the riders I met from Halfway to Enterprise were headed. I'm glad the challenge of this ride got to me!

Difficult lighting in this photo of Cousin Judy and me as she sends me off

map of my ride. In Idaho I was often on side roads not shown instead of US 95