Chris Mullen planned this ride and advertised in Adventure Cycling's "Companions Wanted" to add David Brunk and myself. After many phone calls and emails, I flew into D.C. on 5 May where Chris picked me up and where we'll begin our adventure from Chris' home following Lewis and Clark's expedition from their real start in the District of Columbia to the mouth of the Columbia River in the Oregon Territory.
This blog began as email to my friend, Corrie Rosetti, who posted it on our bike club's blogging site adding photos when I could get him those. He and our webmaster, Pete Belle, slowly taught me how to post myself, and then in the middle of the trip changed blog sites making me relearn my new lessons. It was moved a couple more times losing some data and photos each transfer before the bike club died in 2017. I decided to put it on my site in 2020 and added many photos.
Note on cameras: David and Chris showed up with new digital cameras which in 2003 were low resolution by default and had to be learned as they went. I showed up with a heavy 35mm SLR camera that developed lots of problems enroute including losing all my photos between Columbus, Ohio and Polluck, South Dakota, so for most of the trip I relied on their photos. Since I don't know who took what photo, I credit them by which camera took the photos as my photo-editing program shows the model camera that took the photo.
Day 0 - Tue 6 May 2003
Chris' home in Fairfax, VA
0.0 miles
Chris' plans seem well laid out. We'll ride up the C&O which will take us to Cumberland, MD where we'll catch the Allegheny Passageway to Pittsburgh. Chris' plan routes us up the C&O Tow path, across the still unopened Great Allegheny Passage and then across Ohio on a route used several years ago by a cross-state ride that avoided the industrial Ohio River which the explorers followed. Today, Chris messed with loading his bike in addition to taking us to his bike shop twice, cooking dinner, and working on his blog. I look forward to the upcoming adventure!
Day 1 - Wed 6 May 2003
Chris' home in Fairfax, VA - Rock Hall Dickerson, Maryland
67.9 miles Day riding time: 6:11
David was delivered to Chris' by his wife Pam this morning and we departed about 0900 hours. We rode about 20 miles through the city and viewed the Jefferson, Lincoln, and Washington Monuments Then we were on the C&O Tow Path a mostly dirt or limestone path that runs alongside the Potomac to Cumberland, Maryland.
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| Steve, Chris & David departing Chris' home -photo by David |
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| Steve, David, & Chris in front of the Jefferson Memorial -photo by Steve |
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| David & Steve in front of Potomac Falls -photo by David |
A hard rain hit us about 1600 hours soaking us before we arrived at Jim and Rochelle Shrybam's home where they and Chris' brother, John, hosted us. Chris had his brother rescue him from the rain in White Horse, MD. David and I arrived about 1900 hours. The house was the home of Maryland's first elected governor. I was impressed with the gunshot hole in a wall left from the War Between the States.
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| Departing the Shrybam's - photo by David Brunk |
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| Sign at Rock Hall - photo by David Brunk |
Day 2 - Thu 8 May 2003
Rock Hall Dickerson, Maryland - Williamsport, Maryland
48.5 miles riding time: 4:12
The mud was so bad on the canal that under Chris' leadership we left it for highways: MD 28, US15, MD464, US340, and MD68 into Williamsport. That meant we abandoned the river's gentle slope for the steep hills of Appalachia. Chris was soon pushing up them. Chris made arrangements for us to stay in Williamsport City Park. The mayor, sheriff, and president of the baseball league all came by to greet us.
David's rear hub froze up just outside of Brunswick, MD, so he hitched a ride into Hagerstown, MD where the Hub City Cycles got him going again. He rode the 5 miles back to Williamsport where he got a motel room.
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| Chris' shower in Williamsport, MD - photo by Chris |
Day 3 - Fri 9 May 2003
Williamsport, Maryland - Paw Paw, West Virginia
60.4 miles riding time: 5:48
We returned to the C&O today. It's been raining hard and generally, the two main tracks of the tow road are covered in water but up this far it's not so muddy - the tracks here have a solid feel; but the grassy middle is soft! Twice with the loaded touring bike, I fish tailed severely. Glad those mountain bikers have taught me to ride Maguire Gulch.
Chris' friend Larry Brook met us outside of Paw Paw and will ride with us for a couple of days. We'll be staying in the Red Roster Hostel. David and Chris got some great shots in the rain today.
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| Steve cycling the C&O -photo by David |
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| Steve on the C&O- photo by Chris |
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| Entering the Paw Paw Tunnel - photo by David |
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| Chris inside the Paw Paw Tunnel Larry & Steve in background - photo by David |
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| David, Steve, & Chris enter West Virginia - photo by Chris |
Day 4 - Sat 10 May 2003
Paw Paw, West Virginia - LaVale, Maryland
37.5 miles riding time: 2:53
Hard rains here in Paw Paw early this morning kept us in bed until 7:00 a.m. We didn't ride away until 11:30. Our ride today was only about 40 miles through the rolling hills of western Maryland ending in Cumberland. We did go down to view the end of the C&O. I really enjoyed the C&O tow path, the solitude, the deer, the trees. David especially didn't like the mud. When we leave the tow path for the highways it puts Chris in the hills which he dislikes and often pushes up. David rides at the same pace Rosetti rode last year- a bit faster than I on the flat, and a bit slower than I on the hills, so we make good riding companions. David most of all did enjoy the 3,000 ft tunnel we passed through yesterday and the 3 waterfalls at its entrance. Apparently, the 3 falls don't usually exist. It's just a treat for those of us riding this wet year. It was too dark for my film, but the companions' digital photos look pretty good.
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| Departing the Red Rooster Youth Hostel, Paw Paw, West Virginia - photo by Steve |
Yesterday, Larry, a friend of Chris' joined us for what will be 4 days. We're spending the night in his home, catching up on e-mail and blogging after a short ride today mostly in rain. We got to a 24 hour Wal-Mart too late for the 1 hour transfer of the digital prints to a CD, but I hope to send Corrie or Pete photos soon, so they can add them to the blog.
The C&O trail, the old tow road that ran next to the C&O Canal up the Potomac, was a great experience, and we finished that section today. Rain has fallen everyday, sometimes as squalls which drove us to shelter, but the rain in the South has been warm, so most of the time we just rode through it. The tow road is always right beside the canal which is generally filled with water, but some sections are dry. Riders are sometimes close to the river and sometimes between the old canal and river. Most of it is overhung with eastern hardwoods. I'd like to see it someday with sunshine on it!
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| Larry, Steve, David and Chris Cumberland, Maryland- photo by David |
Day 5 Sun 11 May 2003
Cumberland, Maryland - Rockwood, Pennsylvania
40.3 miles 4:41 riding time
Host Larry Brock and his wife fed us a great breakfast, and Larry escorted us from his home up about 2,000 ft to Frostburg, Maryland where we got on the Allegheny Bike Trail and on to the Mason Dixon line. We passed through two tunnels; one was not yet opened. Following Chris' advice "keep your eyes on the light at the end of the tunnel and don't look down" David fell in the first tunnel. (I said nothing, though I intended to ride with a decent light and watch where my wheels were headed!) David is a cleanliness fanatic, and from the moment he went down in the mud he was planning to end the day as soon as possible for all of us, dreaming of an early afternoon shower. However, this is our first day without rain and its accompanying low visibility, so I was hoping to get some miles in and enjoy seeing things. The second tunnel wasn't opened yet and workmen objected slightly when we cycled by them. Coming out of the tunnel was a new world north of the Mason Dixon Line. Trees weren't fully leafed out, dandelions were everywhere (none south of the line), and a few small farm plots were scattered in the forests. Instead of warm rains we had an initial warm dry wind. The difference in crossing the Mason-Dixon line can't always be this dramatic, but today it was two different worlds. There was nothing in Myersdale, PA, so we got in a few pleasant miles before finding a B&B in Rockwood, PA though there was nothing else there. Our B&B hosts drove us to another town where we could buy dinner. We got only 40 miles of riding on our first dry day! It was my first time to meet the people of Appalachia. I wasn't impressed, drooped shoulders, eyes that seem to focus on nothing, and people who don't know their whereabouts. At first I thought we were in a town where Pennsylvania kept its mildly retarded people. David and Chris who are both familiar with Appalachia got quite a laugh out of my observations.
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| Larry Brock just before entering the Big Savage Tunnel - photo by David |
Crossing the Mason Dixon Line put us on the Great Allegheny Passage, a rails to trail project that will run from the Maryland state line up to Pittsburgh. There are still several places where detours must be discovered, but the crushed limestone is a pretty nice bed for mountain bikes and adequate for our 38mm touring tires.
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| Steve inside the Savage Tunnel - photo by Chris |
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| David after his roll in the mud, Chris, and Steve - photo by Steve |
Day 6 Mon 12 May 2003
Rockwood, Pennsylvania to West Newton, Pennsylvania
75.9 miles 6:15 riding time
After quitting early yesterday for David's mid-day shower, rain returned today but this time it was cold with significant wind. I tried repeatedly to call a first cousin outside Pittsburgh I hardly ever see but was unsuccessful. The trees overhead kept about half the wind off us and reduced the rain hitting us greatly. When we left the trail on the several detours on this still unfinished route we found many steep hills. My 19.9" gear which was supposed to be in reserve for some steep hill I'd never find has been used many times! I believe we went up a ½ mile hill that equals MacIntosh in steepness! Most of the hills are short though. The tree lined rail to trail provided a bit of protection. It was too rainy and cold to enjoy Ohiopyle State Park which we briefly visited. David made arrangements for us to stay in the West Newton Presbyterian Church where we enjoyed their hospitality.
Day 7 Tue 13 May 2003
West Newton, Pennsylvania to McDonald, Pennsylvania
40.0 miles 4:07 riding time
Day 8 Wed 14 May 2003
Chris fixed an oatmeal breakfast in the church this morning, and then we talked to Bill Sukols, pastor of West Newton Presbyterian Church. We got lost looking for the Montour Rail Trail but only added about 6 unnecessary miles. David made arrangements for us to stay at Gladden Presbyterian Church where pastor Jonathan Cook Andres met us, took us to his home to shower, and fed us pizza. The "session" met tonight, so we met and enjoyed the church's governing board who were extremely welcoming and interested in the trip. We tried to pay for the pizza, but Jonathan declined saying we'd been an inspiration to him and the church.
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| Pastor Johnathan Cook Andres of Gladden Presbyterian Church -photo by David |
Day 8 Wed 14 May 2003
McDonald, Pennsylvania to E Palestine, Ohio
61.5 miles 5:08 riding time
We rode the Montour Trail for about 20 miles to Corapolis, Pennsylvania, on the Ohio River where we seemed to enter the Rust Belt. David had us set up for a stay at East Palestine's United Presbyterian Church. Pastor J. Slaughter welcomed us. We took garden hose showers behind the church. East Palestine was prosperous looking as was the church despite being surrounded by the Rust belt.
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| Steve at the unkempt entrance to Ohio - photo by Steve |
The first striking thing about Ohio is the lack of a clean indoor air act. People seem to smoke anywhere and everywhere with no hesitation to blow smoke in other's faces almost like the 1960's in Idaho but not quite as bad as Europe. They'll light up anywhere even in a line to order food in a café!
Chris would say the next most striking thing about Ohio is the hills! Unbelievably steep, but generally short. The worst was a ½ mile hill as steep as McIntosh Hill with a corner in it that hid the upper half. David who has lived in this area says we're still on the edge of the Alleghenies.
Day 9 Thu 15 May 2003
E Palestine, Ohio - Doyalstown, Ohio
82.5 miles 7:23 riding time
We awoke to another hard rain, saw some clearing later in the day, and had a thunderstorm by 1900 hours that lasted for the final 12 miles to David's brother's home. Chris says this was the toughest day yet for the hills, and it was over 80 miles in the rain.
Day 10 Fri 16 May 2003
layover day Doyalston, Ohio
0 miles
John, Sonya, and their daughter, Heidi were excellent hosts. They were great company and fed us royally. John drove us around to a bike shop, outdoors store, and to Van's Photo Shop where the photos were downloaded to CD. Then it was back to John's where we washed our grimy bikes. After a great dinner, we had a lengthy map meeting. Pam arrived to take David to their youngest son's college graduation which will entail three days off the ride.
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| left: Heidi and Sonja Brunk right John Brunk our hosts |
Day 11 Sat 17 May 2003
Doyalstown, Ohio to Mohican State Park, Ohio
64.1 miles 8:01 riding time
We rode through Amish country today, this rainless and first day of David's absence. I found the best Amish bakery ever, but Chris was lost in thought about his derailer and only pulled into the bakery's lengthy driveway to adjust the derailer and went on. We couldn't get a camp spot in the Mohican State Park, so we camped in a nearby meadow for free.
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| Chris cycling in Amish country - photo by Steve |
Day 12: Sun 18 May 2003
Mohican State Forest, Ohio to Alum State Park, Columbus, Ohio
52.5 miles 4:02 riding time
We awoke to rain, but most of the day's riding was dry. I made my first visit ever to my first cousin, Laretta Largent Fiorentino's home. She's the sister to the cousin near Pittsburgh I couldn't reach. We were supposed to spend the night there, but they "lost" their phone, so during their confusion we got a campsite. They later found the phone, but since we were already set up in camp, they drove out, picked us up, and fed us a great dinner. Had a great time. They picked us up again for breakfast that stuffed two big eating cyclists (sausage- an old receipt from Bob's Italian history, bacon, English muffins, eggs, coffee, pancakes, the fancy dessert we didn't have the night before). That put us well on our way to our 6,000 daily calorie consumption! Hope they don't think I eat that way everyday! Thanks Laretta and Bob!
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| Dinner with the Fiorentino cousins - photo by Chris |
Getting into and out of Columbus was a bit tricky with moderate to heavy traffic in contrast to the wonderful county roads we've been on.
Day 13: Mon 19 May 2003
Alum State Park, Columbus, Ohio to Xenia, Ohio
83.0 mile 6:37 riding time
After breakfast with the cousins, we got on the Erie rail to trail from S. Charleston to Xenia.
Day 14: Tue 20 May 2003
Xenia, Ohio to New Miami, Ohio
59.5 miles 4:34 riding time
After three days off and three days without rain David rejoined the group this morning. We rode the Little Miami Bike trail for 35 miles to South Lebanon where we got on county roads, and where the rains returned thoroughly soaking us. The mayor found out we were coming from the nearby Bedford Chamber of Commerce. On this rainy day she arranged with the Salvation Army for us to use their gym, showers, and sleep on the wrestling mats. The mayor was extremely gracious, taking us out for dinner, and even taking our cycling clothes to her home where she washed them for us. She called the local radio station which interviewed us.
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| Mayor Katherine Rumph-Butler and her husband - photo by Chris |
Day 15: 21 May 2003
New Miami, Ohio to Batesville, Indiana
62.8 miles 4:57 riding time
We rode 18 miles into Oxford, Ohio where we found our first good- really good bike shop, "The Bike Center". Chris had "fixed" his derailleur when nothing was wrong with it, and it was performing poorly- both front and rear! His & David's chains needed replacing. David's spacers on his front rings were too large, so the chain would get caught between the rings making him swear. Before David reported that, the mechanic asked him if the chain caught between the sprockets! That's fixed as well as several other small things. The mud of the C&O & Allegheny Passage had eaten up everyone's back brake pads. The day was sunny and pleasant. Chris set us up for the night at the Hampton Inn.
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| Marty Creech owner of "The Bike Center" with an apprentice |
Observations on the group after a couple weeks of riding:
Chris put this ride together. He chose some great back roads- one lane paved routes and county roads for the most part. However, he didn't do the easy part, a spreadsheet showing tentative nightly stops and distance between them. Chris started out in inadequate shape for the ride which makes him hate hills. Although we agreed to ride an average of 60 miles per day, Chris would like to have a maximum ride of 60 miles per day. He actually thought once he got over the Alleghenies he wouldn't have to worry about hills until the Rockies! His strength is improving steadily, but his self-image lags behind the improvements in his riding. Chris is in love with the idea of touring, fun loving, loyal, and sometimes goofy.
David is a bit faster than I on the flats, but I can keep up with him. I'm faster than he on the hills. Chris hates hills and is slower than David and I, and often rides behind us. David does like to get up early and take off, stopping for very few things. He combines his skills as a salesman and as a Presbyterian Elder to arrange many stays in Presbyterian churches. David is straight laced and methodical. Even this brief description of the two might indicate that he and Chris irritate each other.
I'm finding it difficult to post to the internet and even call. About 7:30 a.m. Eastern time would be a great time to call my friends in Pacific Time, but no one would appreciate a call at 4:30 a.m. I suppose. When we have opportunity to get on the internet all 3 of us want on it! I'm always in bed by 10:00 p.m. which is only 7:00 p.m. Pacific time, so no one has been called, sorry Crazy Ladies who kindly bought me a pre-paid calling card to call them, but I'll start calling somehow, and I know none of you will mind being roused early!
Day 16: Thu 22 May 2003
Batesville, Indiana to Brownstown, Indiana
86.7 miles 7:01 riding time
Indiana
is starting out great! We had tail winds yesterday and so far today
(it's 9:30 a.m. and will soon be time for our 2nd breakfast). There are
more hills here than I ever would have expected, but the hills, patches
of forest (deciduous forest), and patches of farm ground, and occasional
winding draws along creeks make for great riding conditions. David's not so fond of the beautiful country, and the straight lines of the state's major highways are attracting him, so after lunch he switched to US Highway 50 (that runs from Sacrament, CA to Ocean City, Maryland) but will meet us tonight in Brownstone. With David in a motel Chris says he's tired and convinces the country fairgrounds to allow us to spend tonight there rather than ride the additional 3 miles to the campground in which we had planned to stay.
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| Steve on an Indiana covered bridge - photo by Chris |
Day 17: Fri 23 May 2003
Brownstone, Indiana to Bedford, Indiana
54.7 miles 5:25 riding time
David spent last night in the Hampton Inn where he had his first breakfast. Chris wanted to sleep in today, so he told David to meet us a 0800 for breakfast which made David's 2nd breakfast. We had spent the night in the Jackson County Fairgrounds which we found a great place to put up our tents, but we had another garden hose shower. David surprised us by announcing he was leaving us to ride US Hwy 50 all the way to Missouri and left the group about noon. Strange, Chris and I are finding these roads the highlight of the trip, and David's searching out the shortest and fastest route. We were again on beautiful back roads today crossing odd mountains or oblong buttes they call “spurs”. I especially enjoyed Ft Ritner on a small creek on an obscure road with a turn of the century store. I Caught up on the blog in the library in Medora.
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| View from one of the "Spurs" - photo by Chris |
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| Steve rides by a round barn - photo by Chris |
Day 18: Sat 24 May 2003
Bedford, Indiana to Montgomery, Indiana
49.4 miles 4:43 riding time
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| Steve partly thru a covered bridge - photo by Chris |
Day 19: Sun 25 May 2003
Montgomery, Indiana - Vincennes, Indiana
52.2 miles 5:27 riding time
Indiana Summary: As pleasant as the back roads of Ohio were, Indiana was better. The state has a reputation for being flat, but the route Chris chose for us was anything but flat. Although the general terrain is as flat as expected, our route took us from "spine" to "spine". The spines are something akin to buttes but oblong, maybe 500 feet higher than the rest of the ground, the tops are very narrow (the roads generally cover the entire "top" and the steep sides start at the road's edge). We'd ride the spine for a mile or two, drop down, across another flat area, and then climb another spine. The grades getting up the spines are STEEP! Anyway, Chris and I crossed Indiana entirely on county roads, and we were able to find camp sites regularly often by scenic lakes and county parks.
A thief in Washington, Indiana stole my sunglasses (yellow lenses only as it was a rainy day) and mirror! Fortunately, he left everything else! We were just in a restaurant, but it was a good lesson to keep my stuff either locked or with me. I suppose it is a cheap lesson.
Day 20: Mon 26 May 2003
Vincennes, Indiana - Sam Parr State Park, Illinois
65.3 miles 5:53 riding time
Chris did a great job planning the particulars of the trip, but much to my surprise as we enter Illinois, I learn his plan ended at the Illinois line! Chris basically handed me a highway map and told me to work out something to get us to St. Louis where we'll pick up Adventure Cycling's "Lewis-Clark Route" with their great maps. I wish he'd have told me to plan this section earlier! Illinois offers some great county roads, and this state is finally on a grid so I know which direction I'm headed without studying the maps! Ohio, builds its roads at any angle, even a 16th of a direction, I believe, and traveling all four directions of the compass every day and traveling all those quarter or less directions, I was beginning to think my sense of direction had died. Indiana's roads, outside of the spines, may be on a grid, but our direction was always toward the next spine!
Chris did a great job planning the particulars of the trip, but much to my surprise as we enter Illinois, I learn his plan ended at the Illinois line! Chris basically handed me a highway map and told me to work out something to get us to St. Louis where we'll pick up Adventure Cycling's "Lewis-Clark Route" with their great maps. I wish he'd have told me to plan this section earlier! Illinois offers some great county roads, and this state is finally on a grid so I know which direction I'm headed without studying the maps! Ohio, builds its roads at any angle, even a 16th of a direction, I believe, and traveling all four directions of the compass every day and traveling all those quarter or less directions, I was beginning to think my sense of direction had died. Indiana's roads, outside of the spines, may be on a grid, but our direction was always toward the next spine!
Chris talked to David today and learned he may be interested in rejoining us. He finally left US 50 and is heading for Hartford, Missouri where Adventure Cycling's Lewis-Clark trail begins.
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| campsite at Sam Parr State Park - photo by Chris |
Day 21: Tue 27 May 2003
Sam Parr State Park, Illinois - Mulberry Grove, Illinois
82.7 miles 7:05 riding time
Sam Parr was a great place to camp in the green turf. Chris found the 80° hot, but I'm glad to be out of the rain. We washed clothes by hand and they dried on the line!
Day 22: Wed 28 May 2003
Mulberry Grove, Illinois - Chain of Rocks Bridge near St. Louis, Missouri
61.5 miles 5:47 riding time
Today was the first real head winds we’ve had. We were glad to reach an occasional hill as it would provide some wind protection and allow us to get our speed up above 10 MPH, and the head winds unbroken by the wind never allowed anything above 9.
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| Steve on the Illinois side of the "Chain of Rocks Bridge" - photo by Chris |
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| Chain of Rocks Bridge and lighthouse from below - photo by David Hinkson used with his permission |
We rode across the "Chain of Rocks Bridge" an old bridge across the Mississippi which is opened only to cyclists and pedestrians and which took us prematurely and ever so briefly into MO. You think Idaho has the only truly illogical bike lane access’ Well, the first step of the Chain of Rocks Bridge crosses to an island which is a popular destination for BIG dump trucks which buzz across this small section of bridge like they own it. Crazy, the first section is scary to ride, then 90% of the bridge is open only to cyclists and pedestrians! On the Illinois side is a main bike lane up and down the river. On the Missouri side we met a junior high school cycling club from St. Louis. Great to see teachers and supporters out with 15 or more kids teaching them the joys of cycling. The school bought the bicycles, and it’s treated as any athletic club. Today was a school day, and the kids were enjoying cycling during the mid afternoon. They shared their PowerAid and snacks with us and showed us something neat a school could do to get inner city kids out on bicycles. It did seem weird the school bought mountain bikes, but the kids were forbidden to ride them as such- being scolded for ‘jumping’ over a very small berm nearby.
Hardy Menees had seen Chris' "Companions Wanted" ad in Adventure Cycling's magazine, had contacted him, and invited us to spend a night with him and Kathy in Kirkwood, Missouri as we passed through. He picked up Chris and me on the Illinois side of the Chain of Rocks Bridge. After spending a few days speeding down US 50, David was picked up in St. Charles by Hardy's secretary and brought to Hardy's home, thus reuniting the 3 L-C Travelers!
We are running a day ahead of what had been planned. Drew, Chris' son, was planning to join us in St. Louis Friday after work, so we basically asked to stay another two nights! Hardy & Kathy were excellent hosts! That first night Hardy had cycling friends over and a BBQ in our honor. We took the next day off, getting to bike shops, visiting the Lewis-Clark visitor’s center, trying to get my camera's light meter fixed (impossible- but after buying an external light meter, the internal meter spontaneously started working again! Maybe all that rain had wetted the inside of my camera. I should have junked the 35mm SLR and bought one of those new digital cameras.) We had the use of Hardy's vehicle that day. I then realized that plan in effect would have us skip 61 miles of the L-C route!
Day 23: Thu 29 May 2003
Layover Day Kirkwood, Missouri
0 miles
With the use of Hardy's car we visited the Gateway Arch, Expansion Park, Old Court House, and drove out to the Lewis & Clark Center in Hardford. We spent a great evening with Hardy and Kathy who were great hosts to three and then four bicycling strangers.
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| Chris at the Gateway Arch in St. Louis - I didn't get the angles quite right- |
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| Chris, David, and Steve at the Lewis & Clark Center in Hartford, Missouri- photo by Chris |
Day 24: Fri 30 May 2003
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| our host Hardy Menees |
62.7 miles 6:10 riding time
I did not want to skip part of the cross country bicycle ride, so Hardy delivered me back out to the Chain of Rocks Bridge, and I rode to St. Charles, MO while Chris and David extended their layover day into two days. Hard rains fell throughout the morning from shortly after the Chain of Rocks Bridge dampening my curiosity about some of the sights Hardy had suggested I would enjoy. Then the sun came out for the ferry ride across the Illinois River, the beautiful peninsula between there and the Missouri, and the ferry ride across the Missouri River. David and Hardy arrived within minutes of my arrival at our meeting spot, the bike shop in St. Charles. Drew, Chris’ son, arrived that night for the pizza feed and to join us for the ride across Missouri.
Day 25: Sat 31 May 2003
St Charles, Missouri - Hermann, Missouri
72.4 miles 6:10 riding time
Hardy shuttled us to St. Charles (requiring two trips) the next morning where we rejoined the Lewis-Clark Route. What great hosts he and Kathy were to 4 unknown cyclists! He plans to ride the Lewis-Clark route next year, and I hope to be able to return part of the favor as he passes through Lewiston. The first day back on the road we made it to Hermann, MO, a beautiful old French town worthy of the hour's after dinner walk through its old sections. Most of our ride across this state is on the Katy Trail, a rails to trail project that is very popular with Missourians. David, still seeking speed, rode state highway 91.
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| Drew, Steve, Chris and David ready to ride - photo by Hardy |
We said our good-byes and thanked Hardy, and started down the Katy Trail to Hermann, a clean and interesting town proud of its German heritage. We camped in its city park which offered warm showers.
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| Katy Trail along the Missouri River - photo by Chris |
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| Drew crossing a small bridge on the Katy Trail - photo by Chris |
Day 26: Sun 1 Jun 2003
Herman, Missouri to Jefferson City, Missouri
56.2 mil 4:46 riding time
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| Steve (SFC Largent) with SGM Green, MIssouri's SGM photo by Chris |
Day 27: Mon 2 Jun 03
Layover Day: Deville Hotel to Jefferson City Presbyterian Church
0.5 miles 0:07 riding time
One of David's goals for the trip was to cycle by his family's old farm outside of Jefferson City and visit some family graves on A/C's optional Jefferson City Route. Visiting old family sites in the rain would be dreary at best, so he suggested a layover day. Drew is on a schedule to get back to Kansas City and work, so that wasn't an option for him. Chris and Drew continued on the Katy Trail while David and I took a layover day and then rode the Jefferson City option. Today was forecast to have "soaking rains". That meant no let up between 10:00 a.m. and sometime during the next night which Chris and Drew endured. David and I met another friendly local who learned of our cycle trip and suggested we see her sister in the capitol for a special lengthy tour of the capitol building. We got to go up, up, up to the outside of the dome with a great view of Jefferson City on a private tour. The forecasted rains started, and David got us a room in a Presbyterian Church where we spent most of that rainy day and night!
One of David's goals for the trip was to cycle by his family's old farm outside of Jefferson City and visit some family graves on A/C's optional Jefferson City Route. Visiting old family sites in the rain would be dreary at best, so he suggested a layover day. Drew is on a schedule to get back to Kansas City and work, so that wasn't an option for him. Chris and Drew continued on the Katy Trail while David and I took a layover day and then rode the Jefferson City option. Today was forecast to have "soaking rains". That meant no let up between 10:00 a.m. and sometime during the next night which Chris and Drew endured. David and I met another friendly local who learned of our cycle trip and suggested we see her sister in the capitol for a special lengthy tour of the capitol building. We got to go up, up, up to the outside of the dome with a great view of Jefferson City on a private tour. The forecasted rains started, and David got us a room in a Presbyterian Church where we spent most of that rainy day and night!
Day 28: Tue 3 Jun 03
Jefferson City, Missouri to Boonville, Missouri
52.1 miles 4;27 riding time
We entertained the Vacation Bible School students briefly this morning by riding into their meeting on our loaded touring bikes crying out "Where's the lighthouse" which is the theme of this year’s Vacation Bible School. I think the many adults there were more interested in the trip than were the young children. David's plan to miss the rain worked beautifully. We left the church in a mist, but no rain fell and 11 miles later we were in Elston and then the family's former farm. No rain is forecast for the rest of the week except Thursday night. David set us up to stay in the Boonville Presbyterian Church tonight with a shower at the YWCA.
Day 29: Wed 4 Jun 03
Boonville, Missouri to Higginsville, Missouri
71.1 miles 5:27 riding time
Rolling hills all morning, but at Marshall it seemed to flatten out, and we had a tailwind into Higginsville. Pam, David's wife, is joining David for the prolonged layover days ahead in Kansas City and caught us in Alma. David set us up to stay in the Higginsville Presbyterian Church.
Day 30: Thu 5 Jun 03
Higginsville, Missouri - Smithville, Missouri
66.3 miles 4:48 riding time
We had a pleasant ride over to Richmond, Missouri. Lest you think Missouri or David’s ideas are perfect, he suggested we deviate from AC's route slightly cutting off 10 miles and going through what we found to be the arm pit of Missouri, Excelsior Springs. The entire trip has been characterized by courteous drivers on quiet back roads and trails. In Excelsior Springs, we were run off the road by two speeding dump trucks traveling in tandem, and a few minutes later I was run off the road by another. David was lucky enough to be on a small paved section of shoulder when the second incident occurred. Every other car rev'd its engine at us; horn honking and vulgar gestures were not uncommon. Weird! Within 10 miles of leaving Excelsior Springs, courteous motorists regained control of the highways. With no Presbyterian Church to contact, David called the Smithville First Baptist Church, and Pastor Pete Hill invited us to spend the night in their building.
Day 31: Fri 6 Jun 03
Smithville, Missouri - Atchison, Kansas
46.0 miles 4:08
We left the First Baptist Church at 0900, planning to stop at Smithville Spokes bike shop for a
few minutes to have our chains checked, and I wanted to have new
handlebar tape put on. We weren't out of there until 1115. We had more head winds today and rolling
hills. We had lunch out of our panniers and out of Pam's car as she was following us. At Platt City David decided to hop in the van with Pam to be driven into Atchison, where they got a room for the weekend at the Atchison Motor
Lodge. Chris and Drew picked me up in Atchison and took me to Drew's home.
Day 32 & 33: Sat & Sun 7 & 8 Jun 03
National Guard drill weekend Independence, Missouri
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| SFC Largent ready for drill weekend photo from his failing camera |
SGM Green had set me up to drill with Harry Truman's old unit in Independence and told them to treat me well. I was as well treated by the staff at the Independence MO Armory as we were by SGM Green. Saturday morning was the pre-drill meeting of NCOs where I was welcomed. Then off to formation where I stood behind the formation as a guest. Several junior guys were dismissed from formation and told to get in the uniform of the day. They haven't all been to boot camp yet, but managed to approach me properly asking for help in rolling up their sleeves (the Army way which is particular and different from the Navy & Marine way), so I felt welcomed by all! I helped them give their annual PT test and compute scores and was treated as some sort of super athlete. Sunday was another day of drill. One drill weekend on tour is done. One more to go!
Chris spent Saturday working on his bike and helping Drew with some chores. Sunday Chris enjoyed a birthday party with his daughter. David and Pam drove by more old family sites nearby.
Tomorrow we'll be back on the road again! Missouri- minus Excelsior Springs- has been a great experience!
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| Pam and David say their good-byes |
Atchison, Kansas - Falls City, Nebraska
61.9 miles 4:28 riding time
Chris, Drew, and I met David and Pam at the "Time Out Restaurant" next to their motel where David said good-bye to Pam, and Chris said his fare-wells to Drew. We were on the road by 0800 hours with a tail-wind! As we headed into the plains this morning I heard the first meadow lark of the trip. We're camping at the city park on Stanton Lake.
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| David looking back on the entering Kansas sign |
Day 35: Tue 10 Jun 2003
Falls City, Nebraska to Nebraska City, Nebraska
55.9 miles 5:31 riding time
Falls City's park on the lake is a beautiful place, but what a thunderstorm hit us last night. Our tents kept all of us dry in a tremendous downpour. We packed up our wet gear, went out for breakfast, and were on the road by 0830 hours. We rode 35 miles to Brownville where we caught the Steamboat Trace Trail for 20 miles into Nebraska City. About 330 yards into the trail it was flooded by last night's rains, and a bog of sticky wet clay covered the trail. The clay soon stuck to the tires and jammed the brakes and drive trains. Dragging the bikes out of this mess to gravel was work, and then we had to clean up the bikes to make the brakes function and the wheels rotate again. We were no sooner on the bikes, and we found a large tree down on the trail. We had to form a team to lift the loaded touring bikes over it. The first stop in Nebraska City was at a coin operated car wash where we violated bicycle care rules by washing them in high pressure spray. Chris split off from us this afternoon for a one-day side trip to see the "Loese hills" and stayed in Waubonie State Park. John Dueling, pastor of Nebraska City's First Presbyterian Church hosted David and me in his home. He, his wife, and 18 year old son, Pete, gave us a motorized tour of the town, and we all went out to an Italian Restaurant.
Day 36: Wed 11 Jun 2003
Nebraska City, Nebraska to Council Bluffs, Iowa
59.5 miles 4:48 riding time
We had breakfast at the Sunrise Cafe with Pastor John Dueling who then gave us a tour of his church before we rode away at 0830 hours. David suffered his 2nd flat outside Pacific Junction, Iowa. Fortunately for him he was nearly in the yard of two active and curious young children who ran to bring us water to drink and a tub of water for Dave to use in finding his flat. Chris rejoined us today. Council Bluffs is a bit of a disappointment; a strip mall kind of town which isn't pleasant in a car and offers little to a cyclist but overpasses, 4 lane roads without shoulders, and speeding motorized vehicles. We're camped at Lake Manawa State Park.
Day 37: Thu 12 Jun 2003
We had breakfast at the Sunrise Cafe with Pastor John Dueling who then gave us a tour of his church before we rode away at 0830 hours. David suffered his 2nd flat outside Pacific Junction, Iowa. Fortunately for him he was nearly in the yard of two active and curious young children who ran to bring us water to drink and a tub of water for Dave to use in finding his flat. Chris rejoined us today. Council Bluffs is a bit of a disappointment; a strip mall kind of town which isn't pleasant in a car and offers little to a cyclist but overpasses, 4 lane roads without shoulders, and speeding motorized vehicles. We're camped at Lake Manawa State Park.
Day 37: Thu 12 Jun 2003
Council Bluffs, Iowa to Sioux City, Iowa
116.6 miles 8:46 riding time
We had tailwinds for 40 miles, had a lunch, and altered plans to allow for a century. Of course the wind shifted during lunch, so no more tail wind for the day! I've been talking about a century since we started. Chris acquiesced, maybe just to get me to shut up! David's price for this was that we agree to stay in a church which he immediately got hold of and got approval to stay in; I don't believe he likes camping though he keeps saying he does! Chris made it with good color and didn't seem fatigued by the experience though he did complain about the miles. However, as soon as David hit 100 miles, he hitched a ride on into town. It took all of 45 seconds from the time he stuck his thumb out to find a pickup willing to haul him in! He had made arrangements to stay in Morningside Presbyterian Church and had the only instructions for finding the church. He announced he was hitching a ride in, and had his bike loaded on the pickup before I could pull out pen and paper to copy the notes! Sioux City is a nice town for cyclists; a central downtown, neat and clean, as is the church. One of the church members took us to his home for showers.
Day 38: Fri 13 Jun 2003
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| David assists with my flat -photo by Chris |
Sioux City, Iowa to Vermillion, South Dakota
51.4 miles 4:30 riding time
I suffered my first flat of the tour today! Road construction caused a snake bite! Drats! David patiently waited until I had my flat fixed and back on the loaded touring bike while Chris rode on. David and I were rewarded with a real milk shake at a genuine old soda fountain at Edgar's in Elk Point, S.D. After viewing a late opening Lewis-Clark museum, the flat caused us to get in at 1755. We're camped at the Lion's Club Park next to the National Guard Armory where Chris had sneaked in for a shower. I quickly followed. David went in search of a motel, but some Elks or Eagles convention had the few motels in town full, so he settled for the Lions Park with Chris, me, and a couple other cycle tourists with whom we enjoyed camping.
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| Chris oversees Steve's flat tire repair - photo by David |
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| David and I enjoy a real milk shake at Edgar's in Elk Point, SD - photo by David |
Day 39: 14 Jun 03
Vermillian, South Dakota to Springfield, South Dakota
70.3 miles 5:53 riding time
After yesterday's late arrival in town, Chris & I were up by 0530 and out of camp by 0630 when David arose! He's usually first up, but last night he got lost in conversation with those tourists, or else the swarm of mosquitoes carried him away for a few hours of feeding, and he felt he needed the extra sleep. We found a helpful and competent bike shop in Yankton S.D. where I had my barely worn out chain replaced with a Shimano chain. We're camped in the City Park for tonight.
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| Steve on the bike trail along the Lewis & Clark Lake - photo by Chris |
Day 40: Sunday 15 Jun 03
Springfield, South Dakota - Platt, South Dakota
92.5 miles 7:01 riding time
Day 41: Mon 16 Jun 03
Platt, South Dakota - Fort Thompson, South Dakota
82.2 miles 6:16 riding timeI enjoyed talking to the college kids this morning before leaving Platt. We met another tourist this morning just outside of Platt as we got back on the AC route. Another Dave whom Chris knows! He tried to talk us into riding with him, but he's supported by his sister in an RV and travels 75 miles a day. We enjoyed his company for about 40 miles and shared lunch. Our David was still behind us, and we wanted to see him. He caught us about an hour after lunch. We had great tail winds today and extended the ride but David cut his ride short staying in Chamberlain, S.D. We wanted to take advantage of a great tail wind while it was available, so we went on to Fort Thompson.
The tail winds we've been enjoying were over today! Head winds and steep grades up to the plateau followed by descents back to the Missouri characterized the day! It was hot, and I ran out of water. I did go for my first swim in the Missouri. Chris took a short cut into Pierre. David got discouraged trying to catch us in the head wind and caught a ride most of the way into Pierre.
We viewed the state capitol this afternoon and are enjoying our camp in the city park on the edge of the Missouri River with excellent swimming. The town is small enough with a central downtown that it's a delight for cyclists.
Day 42: Tue 17 Jun 03
Fort Thompson, South Dakota - Pierre, South Dakota
90.1 miles 8:57 riding timeDay 43: Wed 18 Jun 2003
layover Pierre, South Dakota
18.6 miles 2:19 riding time |
| South Dakota's Capitol building in Pierre |
I spent all morning working on "the plan". We have had no master plan of where and when we'd be staying. Chris' best guess did basically work to get me into Kansas City on time for my drill weekend, but I had no idea how much of a guess it was! There's no plan to get me to Missoula or Helena for the 12-13 July drill which isn't acceptable, so I'll come up with one. Not that Chris was responsible for writing that plan, but he did lead me to believe he had. Mapping it out at a comfortable pace shows we'll arrive in Salmon, ID (between Helena and Missoula) on Sunday 13 Jul. I've emphasized to both of them I can drill in Helena or Missoula but I need to make specific arrangements with the Guard! Helena would let us have a relaxed pace, and Missoula will require some longer days. I'm OK with either option. We need to make up our minds, and I need to let Drew know which place to send my uniforms soon. Neither seem too concerned. Chris would like to get to Missoula so he could have a double layover day with his friend there, and David seems uninterested which doesn't seem like him. Once the uniform is in the mail to one of those armories, I'll be sure to be there on drill weekend regardless! Working on the plan makes it clear there are some desolate areas in MT ahead of us!
Chris had his first flat in Pierre right at the laundromat, so he had a sink to make finding the hole easy, and air conditioning to make it comfortable. He had it even better than David with his flat in the front yard of helpful children! The luck of the Irish! Chris had also let his blog fall way behind, but he has it up to date with a photo of most days for anyone wanting to check it out.
Day 44: Thu 19 Jun 2003
Pierre, South Dakota - Selby, South Dakota
106.0 miles 8:14 riding timeWe deviated from the AC (Adventure Cycling) route again today, up the west side of the river, across the dam, and back to the east side (Central Time- the river is the time zone line which is a nuisance locals apparently ignore as all seem to use Central Time). David was feeling especially strong and eager to remove any "weak man" image after falling behind and hitch-hiking into Pierre to finally catch us. All day he had in mind making this 106 miles into Selby, but I felt they were both tired after the last century and wasn't going to press for another century so soon. Strong winds from the S.E. kicked in today adding to his desire to get in some extra miles. The campground we'd planned to stay in was on a rural bare knoll catching all the hot sun despite some new saplings that gave no shade, so after viewing that I was eager to go to the next town giving us about 75 miles. Making that campground less appealing was the fact that we'd arrived there about 1:15 (Central Time) with some 8 hours of daylight left with nothing to do, no stores, no people, etc. We rode down to the junction of hwy 1804 and 83 where David and Chris discussed whether to go to Gettysburg, SD or Sebly. Since the road to Sebly was closed for construction, it should have been an easy decision, but a guy who claimed to be the construction superintendent talked to David and said it would be no problem to cycle through. David and Chris disagreed and said since I hadn't weighed in on the discussion that I could decide. I voted for Gettysburg, but the next thing I knew we were cycling toward Sebly for a full century. I'd told them earlier I'd never be the one to complain about excessive miles unless they planned centuries multiple days in a row. About 3 miles up the road, the road surface was completely removed. About a mile later, the former road bed had a disk like machine turning over the soil (like a plow for those of you not familiar with farm equipment). A construction worker said he'd take us 3 miles to the end; three huge dirt movers going about 45 MPH zoomed by, and I threw my bike in his pickup with the other 2 surprising David and Chris that I'd take the motorized support. I viewed it like a pilot car! Riding through the nearby crop lands would have been easier than getting through that muddy surface! Despite the great tail wind Chris was pretty tired by this 106 mile ride, and David is always in favor of a motel, so they got a motel and I camped as had been planned for that night.
Day 45: Fri 20 Jun 2003
Selby, South Dakota to Pollock and on to Stateline, South Dakota
56.9 miles 4:37 riding timeWith Chris tuckered out from the 106 mile ride yesterday, I was well ahead of the motelers this morning. David and then Chris showed up as I finished breakfast with a couple doing the L-C trail on a racing tandem. David and Chris weren't packed or ready to go, and I was planning a side trip to Pollock, where my mother's grandparents had homesteaded and left in 1901. The strong tail wind of yesterday had turned into a horrible 40 to 50 MPH wind from the south. Great most of the time when I was headed north, but a killer for the 15 miles I had to go west. Chris and David wisely altered course to go only north this day to Hazelton, ND where they stayed in the city park with the town celebrating its centennial.
With help from a local historian in Herreid, SD, I found the site of the old family church and graveyard where two great-aunts were buried as children. However, my good luck seemed to sour here. The 50 MPH gust blew over my bike. My camera would not allow the film to be taken out of it, and a 36 exposure roll is likely ruined. I rode to Pollock's (population 339) and found their newspaper office. No one there knew anything about darkrooms, bicycle trips, the local Lutheran Church, or anything else I could ask. No, they didn't even interview me for the local paper as a descendant of the original settlers. The Lutheran pastor had taken the day to go shopping in Bismark. However, the janitor at the local school let me into their dark room which I believe leaked some white light, but where I was able to force the film out of the camera. He suggested I visit a couple of elder Lutheran woman who had lots of info on the old church and Norwegian community my great-grandparents were part of. I tried to catch the pastor that evening, but they also had family issues so this also wasn't a good time to see him. The wind was still howling at 30 to 50 MPH, sand blasted me in the face, and I felt like escaping Pollock, so I rode to State Line, a small resort. Wind howled all night but was still from the south. Riding just a mile or so south was nearly impossible, but necessary to get out of town and take advantage of the wind for a while longer.
Day 46: Sat 21 Jun 2003
Stateline, South Dakota - Mandan, North Dakota
88.6 miles 7:00 riding timeThe wind continued howling all night and even once picked up the bottom end of my tent raising my feet slightly and awaking me from the few minutes of sleep I was enjoying when the noise of the wind didn't have me awake. I enjoyed a good breakfast with the help in the little café and rode off into the wind. No towns to pass through, but there was a little road side table about mile 50 where I had a lunch as I tried to hold onto it from the howling wind. This was some hilly country with steep rises as the terrain rises above the Missouri and the road passes through ravines that feed into the river. Most of the ride was with a tail wind, so not too bad. Bismarck sits in the draw, and as I descended to it the wind seem to moderate down to 15 MPH or so. Chris needed a new cassette, so I knew they were headed to the bike shop. I went there as something in my drive train was skipping. The Shimano chain I bought in Yankton just 591 miles ago was worn out, and replacing it fixed the problem. (Note to self- no more Shimano chains!). I also had my derailer adjusted, and found out my companions had gone to a motel with a campground just over the river in Mandan, which was closer to downtown than the one in which we'd planned to say. Surprise, surprise, when I got there, they'd checked into the motel. The motel also has a campground, but tornado watches were posted north of Bismarck and the clerk wasn't going to let me camp. Fortunately, he eventually relented. The wind slowly abated, and I finally had a good night's sleep without 50 MPH gusts!
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| Steve passes into North Dakota |
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| David enters North Dakota a day ahead of me in a much greener area |
Day 47: Sun 22 Jun 2003
layover day in Mandan and Bismarck, North Dakota
11.0 miles 1:17 riding time
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| North Dakota's modern capitol building- photo by Steve |
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| Chris in the Bismarck bike shop - photo by Chris |
Day 48: Mon 23 Jun 2003
Mandan, North Dakota to Hazen, South Dakota
80.1 miles 6:34 riding time
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| Steve, park employee, Chris, and David at Fort Mandan - photo by Steve |
The tour book had the info wrong on the ‘RV park’; it’s just that and doesn’t take tenters, but the manager admires cyclists, took us in, and let us use his personal shower!
Most annoyingly, we were stopped by a young deputy today. I’m not sure why. He first questioned whether we had mirrors. It was hard not to be sarcastic, since he couldn’t look at our eyes without seeing the mirrors. Then he told us to ride to the side of the road, which, of course we were. When I’m home I’ll probably spend the time to get hold of the sheriff and the SD State Bicycle Coordinator to make my complaints since the stop seemed to have no purpose except to communicate the young man’s personal prejudice against cycling.
Day 49: Tue 24 Jun 2003
Hazen, North Dakota - Killdeer, North Dakota
61.9 miles 5:38 riding time
Light, cold rain hit us the rest of the way into Killdeer. We were wet, and it was still raining, so we got a motel. The motel had many rules neatly hand posted on a big white placard. One of those rules was "No cleaning birds". We wondered aloud what a "cleaning bird" was and got quite a laugh out of the sign. Rain stopped by 1800, but it was good to be inside dry and warm.
Day 50: Wed 25 Jun 2003
Killdeer, North Dakota - Watford City, North Dakota
58.8 miles 6:02 riding timeRoads were hilly coming out of Killdeer west. We had a few sprinkles hit us, and David was in another pickup- riding all the way to Williston SD this time. No real rain fell, and we didn’t even get our jackets out. We went into ‘Grassy Butte’ for a brief lunch. Some guy bought this business a few months ago and has about $100 of inventory which left us with an inadequate lunch. However, he’s very friendly and would stage mountain bikes riding the Maah Daah Hey Trail- about 100 miles between N. Teddy Roosevelt Federal Park and the South Unit.
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| Steve on the edge of the Badlands - photo by Chris |
Lots of talk around here about the Maah Daah Hey Trail. We stopped at the North Unit but with strong winds from the Northwest, we didn’t want to ride the 28 miles in and straight back out. We stayed in the White Buffalo RV Park. They let us stay in the office building and use their washing machine which we appreciated. Chris and I are spending the night in Watford City in an RV park in the owner's doublewide trailer where they used to live. They kindly offered that after a few seconds of talking to us
Day 51: Thu 26 Jun 2003
Watford City, North Dakota - Williston, North Dakota
55.2 miles 5:34 riding timeChris & I enjoyed the ride though these NW winds are tough! We keep crossing and re-crossing the time-zone line here in ND and are losing sight of what time it really is! Lots of North Dakotans ignore the time zone they’re in and use the one they want which seems to be Central Time! I suppose you could accuse me of doing that, but I’ve not found anyone else who will join me in using Mountain Time in North Idaho! We’ve set up ‘camp’ at Williston's city park. The library is on the edge of the park! We found David, who plans to rejoin us for tomorrow's ride.
Williston turned out to be the Mosquito Capital of the trip so far! I feel like one big welt after a night in their city park! Walk through the park and clouds of mosquitos arise out of the grass! Until this experience I've had a bite to two to deal with all the time, now finding any one bit among the others is a challenge.
Williston turned out to be the Mosquito Capital of the trip so far! I feel like one big welt after a night in their city park! Walk through the park and clouds of mosquitos arise out of the grass! Until this experience I've had a bite to two to deal with all the time, now finding any one bit among the others is a challenge.
Day 52: Fri 27 Jun 2003
Willison, North Dakota - Culbertson, Montana
48.1 miles 4:48 riding timeAbout 10 miles out of Williston we met 5 Adventure Cycling tourists doing the Northern Tier and enjoyed 5 to 10 minutes of roadside chat. In Bainville, MT, where we had lunch, we talked to the other 5, and talking to other tourists is always a highlight. Here in Culbertson as I arrived at the city park, two other tourists: Tom and Dick arrived at the same time. Harry (really) had planned to ride with them, but had some scheduling problem so wasn't there! We had dinner and breakfast together. Pam, David's wife, arrived today to camp with us and drive alongside David.
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| Chris enters Montana Tom & Dick at Culbertson City Park - photos by Steve |
Day 53: Sat 28 Jun 2003
Culbertson, Montana - Wolf Point, Montana
61.3 miles 5:32 riding time
Chris and I left Culbertson without David today as he was late joining the four of us. He had Pam drive in front of him and drafted off the van in order to catch up! Later that day we met 5 girls who had just been graduated from college this spring and were celebrating with a cross country tour. We were fighting a consistent headwind of only 5 to 10 MPH and asked them about the wind. They replied "the wind has had no effect on us this tour". That's good for a laugh! With no experience touring and little as cyclists, they apparently haven't noticed the mild tail wind they've been enjoying since departing Anacortes! "The wind has had no effect on us" will become a standard joke among us. Nonetheless, we really enjoyed their youthful enthusiasm coupled with their growing knowledge of touring.
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| college grads whose ride had not been affected by the winds! (with Steve & Chris on the ends)- photo by David |
Customer service in Wolf Point isn't very high. I ordered the local equivalent of a blizzard from the local ice cream store and said I wanted chocolate in it. The waitress informed me that the owner was "very strict that no chocolate was to be put in the blizzards"! I thought the waitress was joking and treated it that way, but she sternly pointed out a sign on the wall and said the owner was very strict about enforcing it! I guess I should have thought to order a chocolate shake and a cup of ground heath bar chips on the side! Wonder if there was a "rule" against this? We had dinner a few minutes before 5:00, and David was told he couldn't have his choice until after 5:00, so he ordered something else. Then a few minutes after 5:00 he ordered dessert and was told it was too late for desserts! Really, this actually did happen. The look on his face caused us many laughs and ended his teasing me about the chocolate in my blizzard!
Day 54: Sun 29 Jun 2003
Wolf Point, Montana - Glasgow, Montana
59.0 miles 4:30 riding time
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| Pam in Glasgow camp |
Just outside Nashua we met another couple doing the Northern Tier. He says her favorite thing in the tour is talking to other tourists, so we talked alongside our bikes for a good 10 minutes. They gave a hearty recommendation to the little ice cream store and café in Nashua where we had a big roast beef dinner (followed by ice cream) in the middle of the day's ride! Finally, the headwinds which have been hitting us for days broke and this afternoon the wind switched to an eastern wind, but I was in camp by 1300 which is too early in very small towns even if I'm not missing a tailwind!
Day 55: Mon 30 Jun 2003
Glasgow, Montana - Malta, Montana
75.5 miles 5:19 riding timeNo mosquitoes in Glasgow- finally a break from them though passing cyclists keep warning us, and I warn them of Williston! Chris mailed home 4.5 pounds of goods today (pots, pans, and stove) which he's only used once. We had a 5 to 10 MPH TAILWIND today until about noon when the winds seemed to reverse, and we're back to the normal (for this area) wind out of the west. We were in Malta by 1300. There are so few towns in eastern Montana that we couldn't extend the ride unless we added nearly 40 miles, and Chris vetoed that after the wind reversed. Here in Malta we finally caught up with Earl, a 76 year old Lewis-Clark cyclist we've been chasing for days. Because of the heat he took a day off here in Malta. Chris decided at the last minute (because of the 90 degree mid-day heat) to get a motel room, so I'm camping with Earl tonight.
Day 56: Tue 1 Jul 2003
Malta, Montana - Havre, Montana
92.0 miles 6:52 riding time |
| 76 year old Earl in our campground at Malta - photo by Steve |
76 year old Earl made a good campground companion last night when Chris and David ducked into a motel to escape the storm that didn’t happen. Earl did break camp about 0400 hours, but we caught up with him between Dodson & Fork Belknap. He had no interest in joining our pack as we were riding in a paceline to reduce the effects of the headwind. Earl caught us again at Ft. Belknap where we had our peanut butter sandwiches. Earl was determined to reach Havre at 92 miles, and his age and determination helped incline David and Chris to that decision. Just outside of Ft. Belknap we met Dan, a 20 something who is with a group of 4 young men doing the Northern Tier. They’re mostly bike shop employees from a bike shop in Tucson that was recently bought out by a chain. We talked to Dan for 5 or 10 minutes and caught the rest of his group 20 miles to the west in an ice cream store in Chinook (about 40 miles separated the two parts!). They ride 60 to 120 miles daily, sometimes sleep at the side of the road, and don’t require daily showers! I asked them if they were on a budget, and the response from one was that he had worked 5 jobs to pay for the trip, and he was not pinching pennies. Their youthful enthusiasm combined with Earl’s aged determination probably pushed David and Chris to support riding all the way to Havre! This jumps us ahead one day and makes it possible for me to drill in Missoula as is now scheduled.
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| David photographing an oncoming train - photo by Chris |
Day 57: Wed 2 Jul 2003
Havre, Montana - Fort Benton, Montana
78.5 miles 7:22 riding timeChris and I camped in the city park on the hill while David and Pam got a motel and had dinner on their own. We'd planned breakfast together, but a phone message from David canceled that.
David departs the group for good this time. From the phone message, David had decided he wanted a rest day in Havre and would like to take another in Helena. Chris planned the route purposely to include the authentic Lemhi Pass which Lewis and Clark crossed. Chris has been nervously anticipating Lemhi Pass since we crossed the Alleghenies, but now David didn't want to ride that gravel pass nor did he suggest another route. Since 15 Jun when he stopped 20 miles short of Platt, David has been aloof and hitch-hiking a lot Maybe we should have caught the clues? Anyway, this morning he left a phone message that he was splitting for another week and planned to meet us outside of Missoula after my July drill, but we'll not see nor hear from him again on this trip as he and Pam drove to their home in the east.
Leaving Havre Chris and I turned to go southwest, and of course, the wind switched to come from the southwest at 5 to 20 MPH by late afternoon. As the wind built we started taking 2 mile turns in front and 2 miles of drafting (drafting is less safe on loaded touring bikes but often done in headwinds anyway). By the time we got to Loma, Chris was saying he was going to hitch hike on into Fort Benton. After a break, some ice cream and lemonade, he decided to crawl back on the bike but said he was too tired to safely draft, so we split up for the last 8 to 10 miles. Fort Benton is a neat little touristy town, in days of old the last stop on river navigation up the Missouri though nothing comes up the river anymore except tourist boats. We’re back in the land of customer service, and the local ice cream store agrees to put chocolate in my ‘blizzard’. It also has no big mosquito problem! The bad part of Montana is over although I’ll be several more days recovering from the mosquito attacks along the Milk River. No wonder Lewis & Clark complained so extensively about mosquitoes!
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| view from Fort Benton Park - it felt like an oasis after the Milk River Valley - photo by Steve |
Day 58: Thu 3 Jul 2003
Fort Benton, Montana - Great Falls, Montana
45.8 miles 3:25 riding timeChris found a newspaper that showed yesterday's winds were clocked at 47MPH in our faces! This morning we both enjoyed riding around the delightful Fort Benton before departing. After climbing up the Missouri bluffs we found many hills, but no wind today! At Chris' behest as we entered Great Falls we headed straight to Gold's Gym soaking in the sauna and Jacuzzi after today’s short ride. We’re staying at the B&B Hostel, run by Todd who cycled the Southern Tier in 2000 and enjoys cyclists coming by. He gives us the care of a good B&B for $13 per night! He’s a great host who obviously likes things clean and nice! Were it not for my upcoming National Guard drill in Missoula, we’d have taken a layover day here. Todd wanted to hear all about the trip, and because David's departure was so fresh and unexpected he heard about that as we were still trying to figure it out. Todd says we really reminded him of the best of his touring days, and he can hardly stand to see us mount up and ride off the next morning as it makes him want to join us.
Day 59: Fri 4 Jul 2003
Great Falls, Montana - 4 Miles S of Wolf Creek, Montana
67.9 miles 7:15 riding time |
| Steve bicycling along the clean Missouri - photo by Steve |
Day 60: Sat 5 Jul 2003
4 Miles S of Wolf Creek, Montana - KOA Campground 3 Forks Montana
97.0 miles 7:15 riding timeRiding through Helena was unpleasant. Red-necked drivers seemed to have learned from their brethren in Excelsior Springs, MO. We were screamed at a few times to get off the road, and a jeep literally came within 2' of Chris which gave me a good scare. That anti-cycling attitude seemed to follow most of the way down to 3 Forks, and is only the 2nd time in the trip that monster has shown its ugly head. We had a late breakfast here as Chris threw out his bananas (as too bruised) and ate only cheap granola bars for breakfast- which isn’t the breakfast of champions! That 8 miles we rode beyond Wolf Creek gave us a head start, and with decent tail winds on from Helena we decided to extend the ride from Townsend to 3 Forks which would put us into Missoula a day early! This is a nice KOA with swimming pool and friendly guests, but it’s 4 miles out of town, and we got camp set up maybe an hour before sunset! A neighbor drove us into town, and the busboy at the restaurant drove us back out to camp during the last minutes of dusk.
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| Steve cycling in front of Montana's capitol - photo by Steve |
Day 61: Sun 6 Jul 2003
KOA Campground 3 Forks Montana - Twin Bridges, Montana
59.9 miles 5:01 riding timeThis morning we didn’t want to ride into town and back out, so we had peanut butter sandwiches for breakfast. The restaurant in LaHood wasn’t opened and there was no restaurant in Cardwell (as listed on AC maps), so we got by on snacks for the 28 miles to Whitehall. Winds were slight, but in our face today. Chris wanted a motel tonight, but I stayed in the country fairgrounds with a couple of families and enjoyed a swim in the Beaverhead River, one of the forks of the Jefferson, which is a fork of the Missouri.
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| snowcapped mountains in the West and here Mighty Mo is blue - photo by Chris |
Day 62: Mon 7 Jul 2003
Twin Bridges, Montana - Grant, Montana
62.6 miles 5:21 riding timeAnother windless morning! We scheduled some internet time in Dillion, but their library is closed on Mondays as are half their cafes! We had to hang around the Dairy Queen for a few minutes before its 1100 opening. Chris called the number A/C lists for camping in Grant, and we leaned that that business is closed on Mondays. However, she agreed to fry us hamburgers and allow us to camp there.
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| Camp in Grant, Montana - photo by Steve |
It turns out there is a competing business across the road not listed in A/C's guide (Grant is nothing- almost like Gifford, ID). Noa, a Japanese man, is cycling The Divide, and was staying across the road at that business that was opened. Enjoyed hearing about his mountain-bike trip. He’s riding 75 to 100 miles daily on that route on a budget of $5 per day! I believe he had ramen noodles for dinner, and his camping spot and shower cost $3! We exchanged e-mail addresses, and I look forward to hearing more about his Canada to Mexico adventure when I get home. Grant is just a dusty spot on the desert, no river, no trees, just sand, sagebrush, and these two small businesses.
Day 63: Tue 8 Jul 2003
Grant, Montana - Salmon, Idaho
58.0 miles 6:17 riding timeThis is the big day that Chis has been both fearing and anticipating! I confess I too had a little apprehension about riding a loaded touring bike across the Continental Divide on a gravel road. The woman in Grant didn’t go to work until 0800, so with a late breakfast, we were off to a late start this morning at about 0845. Headwinds were strong as we started out, and we were riding into the eye of a storm though in all other directions the sky was clear. Cold rain soon started hitting us. Chris pulled over in the desert, and I rode on up to a cattle chute ¼ mile away and crawled under it. About 10 minutes later Chris caught me; he was soaked. I was huddled cold but dry under that cattle loading shoot where he joined me and my dry bike! Since it was dry under there, it was not too smelly!
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| the approaching storm - photo by Chris |
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| The storm begins to lift. Steve still in his rain gear - photo by Chris |
The storm didn’t last long, and we were soon cycling up the gravel pass that we had feared since Chris proposed crossing Lemhi Pass. The air was cold after the rain, and the pavement soon ended. We had lunch as we reached the first trees. Some cowboys showed up to lassoo cattle. We watched them rope a couple and give them shots before taking off.
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| Steve with two miles to the top - photo by Steve |
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| Steve with a bicycle wheel on each side of the Missouri Chris straddling the Missouri - photos by Steve |
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| Chris and Steve at the top - photo by Chris |
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| Chris and Steve entering Idaho - photo by Steve |
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| Chris fixing a flat on Lemhi Grade - photo by Steve |
The grade on the Montana side isn’t too steep; requiring my 26" gear only for a brief while, but I'm sure I would have wanted the 19.9" gear to get up the Idaho side! It was a steep descent! Chris has no mountain biking experience, and really crawled down the mountain. Between the steepness, gravel, and washboards, it was a challenging ride down on loaded touring bikes. Chris also had a flat about half way down the steep part which caused him to ride even slower afterward. I arrived in Tendoy with an average speed of 7.7 MPH! Tendoy, Idaho is green and clean and gave Chris a good first impression of Idaho. It was good to get back on pavement for the ride along the Lemhi River to Salmon, and I picked up the pace to 17 to 18 MPH.
Day 64: Wed 9 Jul 2003
Salmon, Idaho - Victor, Idaho
104.0 miles 8:33 riding timeRiding down along the Salmon River to North Fork was easy and smooth, but then we started up and over Lost Pass where the Bitteroots branch off the Rockies dividing Idaho from western Montana. We found nothing in Gibbonsville, where A/C's maps had promised food. However, the woman who runs a group of cabins there gave us the best peaches I've eaten in years, bananas which she was afraid would be wasted, and oranges, as well as the use of a delightful pic-nic table under the ponderosas before we started up the mountain. In the hot summer weather winds are blowing up hill, so we had a tailwind up the mountain, and a headwind down into the Bitterroot Valley. We talked to an 18 year old Trans Am rider for 15 minutes. He was carrying 70 pounds on his bike; 50 pounds of which were on his back! He's preparing to join the Marines, so he says carrying that weight on his back is good training! While talking to him, Ken, a day rider joined us. He’s a mountain biker on vacation. His group is camping and supported by an SUV which drives each day until they find a decent mountain bike ride. Ken was in a recent wreck, so he switched to a road bike while his 2 friends mountain bike daily. He did Odyssey 2000- that around the world bike ride and made a very interesting companion for half a day. The schedule had us stopping in Darby about 30 miles short of a century, but Chris has a friend in Victor, just outside Missoula, so we pushed hard to get there. It was 2100 hours MDT before we got to our destination, but our host fixed steaks and a great dinner. He has a hot tub, a great rural setting with a rapid creek flowing just below the deck. He has two computers with separate internet access. No reason to ever leave here!
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| left Steve & Chris enter West Montana right: Kean & Chris - photos by Steve |
Day 65: Thu 10 Jul 2003
layover day Victor, Montana
0 miles 0:00 riding timeDay 66: Fri 11 Jul 2003
Victor, Montana - Missoula, Montana
53.2 miles 3:54 riding timeChris wasn’t going to cycle into Missoula with me today, but as I was departing at 0900, he changed his mind. By 1000 hours we were on the road. By the time we got to Lolo it was evident I’d have trouble meeting my goals 1) haircut, 2) visit Adventure Cycling Headquarters, 3) report to National Guard prior to 1700 hours. By skipping lunch, shorting some of our conversations with passing tourists, and by getting my haircut AFTER checking into NG, we did meet the goals. Today we talked to tourists: mother and daughter team cycling from Williston, ND to Missoula and down to Jackson Hole, WY; a father with his 16 year old son & 13 year old daughter doing Missoula to Pueblo on the Trans Am; a couple doing a mixture of NT, L-C, & Trans Am from Washington to Maine. We also saw a single guy we didn’t talk to as we were trying to make up for a 1000 hours departure! Chris called Ken for a shuttle back to Victor and found out my uniform wasn’t there at 1645, so while checking I reported my problem of no uniform. However, Ken wasn’t able to drive off until1730 - just as the UPS driver arrived in his driveway with my uniform!
Day 67: Sat 12 Jul 2003
drill weekend Missoula, Montana
20.9 miles 1:47 riding timeI was put to work at the drill in Independence and found it interesting. In Missoula they were checking equipment in after their 2 week’s annual training near Boise, didn't use me, and I was bored a rare occurrence in my military career. After drill I rode the bike paths of Missoula and checked out the college campus. Wish I’d have had a big tube to join the many tubing the rivers! Today Chris and Ken made a quick trip to Glacier National Park
Day 68: Sun 13 Jul 2003
drill weekend Missoula, Montana
3.9 miles 0:24 riding timeChris spent most of the day at a Blue Grass festival with Ken, Corine, and their son, Jake. I rode from the Value Inn in Missoula to the armory and after drill from the armory to Wal-Mart where I met Chis. He got his digital photos downloaded to CD there, and tonight got most of his blog updated with photos for those of you following his blog.
Day 69: Mon 14 Jul 2003
Victor, Montana - Lolo Hot Springs, Montana
61.8 miles 5:09 riding timeI’ll miss Ken, his hot tub, well behaved dogs, excellent cooking, and pleasant personality, but it does feel good to get back on the road again. I rode from Ken's, but as we'd already ridden Victor to Lolo on Friday, Chris had Ken deliver him to Lolo where we met and rode on out the 26 miles to the hot springs where we called the day a bit short of the plan and enjoyed soaking and swimming.
Day 70: Tue 15 Jul 2003
Lolo Hot Springs, Montana - Three Rivers, Lowell, Idaho
89.1 miles 6:20 riding timeA short but steep climb of about 13 miles awaited us as we left the hot springs and arrived at the new Lewis-Clark Visitors Center which was closed today and every Tuesday and Wednesday. From here, it’s downhill all the way to Lowell.
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| Steve & Chris at Lolo Summit - photo by steve |
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| Chris along the Lochsa - Photo by Steve |
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| Chris with his mouth full of cherries- photo by Steve |
About noon the prevailing westerlies kicked in. Just after noon we met Matt & Ben two 17 year old cousins soon to be seniors in high school. One is from Pasco where they started and the other is from Chicago. They started in Pasco, WA, rode south to Baker, OR where they caught the Trans Am, and will finish in Pueblo, CO. I joined them for an hour or so of swimming, but I couldn’t convince Chris to get in the water, and he soon cycled on without me. Ben & Matt were full of questions about touring and specifically about single touring verses doing it with companions. Seems one like to sleep in, rest most of the afternoon, and get most of the miles in late afternoon when it’s hottest. The other doesn’t like that! Welcome to the world of cycle touring where finding suitable companions can be the biggest challenge! Their parents have forbidden their splitting up and meeting in the evening, and they've obeyed that edict. They were still swimming with most of their mileage awaiting them when I left them at 1630 MDT. I arrived at Lowell about 1830 MDT (drats, I’m back in this accursed eastern enclave of Pacific Time and must set my watch back losing an hour of light. Chris likes to be up by the clock rather than by sunrise, and the clock has some of that effect on me as well as the opening time of every business!)
Day 71: Wed 16 Jul 2003
Three Rivers, Lowell, Idaho - Kamiah, Idaho
35.0 miles 2:53 riding timeSeems almost like a day off to put in such few hours! However, with this heat (95° today) and the pressure we were under to get to Missoula, we have a few easy days. Seven Mile Grade awaits us in the morning, and we hope to conquer it in the morning coolness. Today we talked to two older guys on custom Co-Motion bikes doing the TransAm with the addition of riding Seattle to Portland plus some planned extra miles back east. They were busy fixing a flat as we rode up on them headed east.
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| camp in Kamiah, Idaho - photo by Steve |
Day 72: Thu 17 Jul 2003
Kamiah, Idaho - Winchester, Idaho
41.3 miles 3:10 riding timeWhen Chris first saw 7 Mile Grade he described it as ‘no bigger than an Indiana Spur’. He soon regretted those words! The grade pretty well wore him down. We had water in Greencreek compliments of the Roman Catholic Church, and there we ate our PB&J sandwiches in their churchyard. Chris was ready for bite-sized steaks in Ferdinand. We’d planned to stay at the lake in Winchester, and when we got there, Chris had no interest in cycling on down to Lewison nor stopping by Winchester's new library for internet access. We met some people with CEDA who invited us to join them for a pic-nic at the old city park on the lake later that day. They had some excellent food. First time I’ve camped at the lake since early adolescence. Amazing how little care the park has given the brush which needs removed, and no trees have been thinned since they took over from the saw mill. Oh well, it’s still a beautiful area. I did see Uncle Mike & Cousin Ken that evening but missed friends John & Sandy Young who came by to see us.
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| Camp at Winchester Lake, Winchester, Idaho: Chris' bike and tent - photo by Chris |
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| Steve catching up with mail & paying bills- photo by Chris |
Day 73: Fri 18 Jul 2003
Winchester, Idaho - Lewiston, Idaho
43.1 miles 3:10 riding timeRiding down the Old Winchester Grade is always fun, and of course Chris enjoyed that. We took a long break at the top of Webb Ridge. That put is in Lewiston early, so I took my bike to B&L in Pullman, Washington to have the bottom bracket worked on; the creaking which seemed to appear in the hot weather continues. Friends Sandy & John had us over for dinner.
Day 74: Sat 19 Jul 2003
layover day Lewiston, Idaho
miles 0:00 riding timeThis was a lazy day today for Chris, and one of paying bills and reading mail for me. The Riddles had a great party for us at their home which was a highlight, but I took no photos, nor did Chris!
Day 75: Sun 20 Jul 2003
Lewiston, Idaho - Waitsburg, Washington
83.7 miles 7:43 riding time |
| Carol & Steve starting up Alpowa Grade - photo by Chris |
Sheila, Dave, & Carol joined us for the ride from Lewiston to Chief Timothy Park, and Carol decided to make it her first climb up the Alpowa Grade giving us some fun and interesting company. I think Carol skipped church to do this though! Mark was supposed to meet us on the grade by 1000 hours, but we were in Pomeroy talking to another tourist when he rode up. It’s over 100° today. Chris ran out of water outside of Dayton where we stopped at a farm house. I dumped my hot water for the ice water given us. We rode to Waitsburg instead of Dayton, so we could stay with cousin Pat Largent. Had a good time with her and her visiting granddaughter; Julianna.
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| sleepy eyed Julianna, Steve, & Pat Largent - Chris doesn't quite have the focus of the SLR camera |
Day 76: Mon 21 Jul 2003
Waitsburg, Washington - Umatilla, Washington
80.6 miles 6:59 riding time |
| harvest is underway. Steve starting up one of the many hills - photo by Chris |
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| Chris riding into the desert west of Walla Walla - photo by Steve |
Day 77: Tue 22 Jul 2003
Umatilla, Washington - Maryhill, Washington
80.6 miles 6:59 riding timeThe truck stop diner at Umatilla proved to be low priced with good food, a pleasant surprise. I’d fallen behind on my journal since Winchester, and stayed up late here in Umatilla catching up. In North Roosevelt we made sure our water bottles were full, remembering Travis’ warning.
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| Steve cycling into a dry spell "Next Services 66 miles" photo by Chris |
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| wide shoulders on the long desert stretch of highway 14 - photo by Chris |
Frank, a local cyclist joined us for about 5 miles but the headwinds and heat made him turn around. Those things had caused my water to disappear before the 500 ft climb east of Biggs (on the WA side). Chris had fallen behind and found a rancher’s house to get more ice water! As I was dry and waiting for him at the top, he's driven up in a pickup! With all the water he could want, he still chickened out of that hill. His host gave me 20 oz of water which was appreciated, but by the time we were in Biggs, I was really dehydrated. 3 pitchers of water at dinner (a bit drunk by Chris) and I was back to myself! Good friend, John Young, had offered to come get me in Astoria, and this day has me thinking about taking him up on the offer!
Day 78: Wed 23 Jul 2003
Maryhill, Washington - Hood River, Oregon
57.4 miles 6:38 riding timeAcross the bridge and onto a frontage road that runs about halfway to The Dalles & then onto the freeway. Headwinds held our average speed down to 8.7 MPH today. We enjoyed the scenic Hwy 30, the twin tunnels (opened only to cyclists & pedestrians) and transitioning from the desert to the forest. At a scenic overlook we met Lauri, a local cyclist, who invited us to set up our camp at her place. Chris decided to seek out a hotel, but I enjoyed spending the night with Lauri & Doug.
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| Chris rides toward Mt Hood which is now visible from I84- photo by Steve |
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| Chris and Steve near the Dalles - photo by Steve |
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| Historic Columbia River Highway- photo by Chris |
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| Chris & Steve enjoying the Historic Columbia River Highway - photo by Steve |
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| Chris back on I 84 - photo by Steve |
Day 79: Thu 24 Jul 2003
Hood River, Oregon - Portland, Oregon
71.9 miles 7:12 riding time |
| Chris pushing his bike up the stairs - note the "gutter" designed to make getting a bike up easier - photo by Steve |
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| Cascade Locks - photo by Chris |
What a great day of cycling! Parts of the Historic Columbia River Highway, bike routes through the forests, and occasional bits of freeway shoulder provided today’s route. Headwinds were horrible again holding avg speed down to 9.9 MPH including the downhill from Corbett. The old abandoned sections of road turned into bike paths were my favorite, but I enjoyed the overlook and some of the people we met there too. I’m reminded that Doug, the host in Hood River, enjoyed July, which he says is the primo time for the wind-surfers. Apparently July offers the strongest winds! Chris suffered his 3rd flat of the trip today. We're in a motel on the east side of Portland tonight.
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| view from Crown Point Overlook Historic Columbia River Highway - photo by Chris |
Day 80: Fri 25 Jul 2003
Portland, Oregon - Westport, Oregon
79.0 miles 7:16 riding timeToday started out poorly- at least as poorly as a 70 some degree with blue skies can be on tour! At departure time Chris decided to patch all his accumulated tubes! It was 0900 before we left the motel! Then we rode A/C's route through Portland, but our bridge, St. John's Bridge, was closed for the summer of ‘03! Another 90 minutes later after riding through downtown Portland on Broadway Bridge, we were across the Willamette River. Just south of Scappoose Chris’s bike started making a noise. I suggested something was in his tires. As he started to stop, I saw a ‘historic sign ahead’ and suggested we stop there. He didn’t want to. When I got there I found the actual sign had been removed! It was only 1 mile into town, so I thought we’d re-meet there. I waited 30 minutes and he didn’t show up. I then went into ShopKo leaving my bike out by the road where no one could miss seeing it. As I got back to it, there was Chris. He was still headed toward me, on the other side of the road, eyes fixed forward in a very upright position. I jumped and cried out, but he never looked my way, and apparently he couldn’t hear me. By the time I got the bike unlocked and waited for the green left turn light, he was gone! I stopped by the library at St Helens to work on the blog. I didn't find Chris enroute, but he was awaiting my arrival at dinner in Westport, OR. As I entered town he was starting to eat a beautifully BBQ'd steak, but this evening he kept one eye opened for me! He didn't go to the RV park as planned, but sought out a motel. They had some adjoining property where I was able to put up my tent making us both happy! It seems Chris had a nail in his tire and didn't hear my invite to the historic site. His nail went clear through the tire creating a second small hole on the inside of the tube which he didn't notice, so he "fixed" his tire twice and took 50 minutes doing so! He also didn't hear me or see me as I was standing on the opposite side of the street jumping and screaming! Later at the bottom of a 500 ft climb he broke his rear derailer cable and hitch-hiked over the hill and on into Clatskanie where he found a BMX shop able to fix it and thus got into town ahead of me.
Westport's restaurant lacks much. It "closes" at 2000, so when I arrived at 1920 they tried ignoring me, as closing seemed to mean they were done with the clean up and had the door locked by 2000. I insisted on ordering, so they substituted a pan fried steak for the advertised BBQ steak. Our waitress left about 7:50 after explaining the fried steak would be as good as the advertised BBQ'd steak (traces of Wolf Point, MT?). The outdoors cook was gone by then too.
Day 81: Sat 26 Jul 2003
Westport, Oregon to Seaport, Oregon, and back to Westport
92.3 miles 7:25 riding time |
| Steve arrives in Astoria - photo by Steve |
In Seaside officially the trip ended with 4,699 miles recorded on my original but worn out tires, and with just one flat tire for me. I did wear out 3 chains and am on my 4th!
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| Steve in Astoria waterfront - photo by Chris |
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| Steve & Chris in unfocused shot at Ft Clatsop replica |
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| Chris & Steve at the finish in Seaside, Oregon - photo by Steve |
Day 82: Sun 27 Jul 2003
Westport, Oregon to Cobbett, Oregon
90.1 miles 7:50 riding timeChris isn't a morning person and with the trip "done" he wanted to lounge about the motel this morning (or hitch hike without hassle from me?) Later this morning he'll be riding back to Portland before flying home, so we said our good-byes, and I was off solo. I met Earl (the 76 year old who turns 77 the 1st week of Aug) outside Rainier. His only complaint was the idiots who say there's no difference in the wind if cycling east or west. After the steady headwinds since we'd met him in eastern Montana, he knew he'd rather ride west to east, and I have to agree!
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| 76 year old Earl with whom we'd ridden in Montana with Steve outside Rainier- photo by Steve |
Hwy 30 between Portland and the actual coast is generally busy with a good shoulder. The sections with 3 lanes are the only problem. Whenever they have a 3rd lane, there is no shoulder, and it seems the RV'ers still like to move far to the right to let everyone else pass them easily. The fact that a cyclist is already there has no impact on most of them. From Scappose to Portland, the road is a four lane highway with little to see. Since the northern-most bridge over the Willamette is still closed forcing cross country cyclists into downtown Portland, I headed out thru the main part of town: Halsey to Troutdale where I had dinner and joined many locals for a swim in the Sandy River before cycling up to Corbett.
Day 83: Mon 28 Jul 2003
Corbett, Oregon Deschutes Recreation Area, Oregon
90.1 miles 7:50 riding timeIt's amazing what can be done on a bike in a day. This morning I was camped on the coastal, rainy side of the Cascades, and tonight I'm in the desert! The Deschutes River provided some good swimming which is wonderful in this heat. The tail winds weren't as strong as the headwinds had been when we came through Hood River the other direction, but who can complain about any tailwind? However, by the time I got to The Dalles, the wind had picked up and it blew me on out to this campground. Today as I passed through Hood River I again saw John Stephenson, a recumbent rider. We'd met back in Nebraska, and then we passed him again in Pomeroy where he was taking a day off on the day we left Lewiston. He was eager to talk today, and we talked on the edge of the hot road for at least a half-hour. Today I also met one of two 20 something women finishing up the L-C route. One says she'd like to ride about 20 miles per day and see everything along the route! That sounds good to me, but in the desert heat, I'd just as soon ride until early evening when it starts to cool off a bit! It's simply too hot to really enjoy touring in the desert in July! Then I rode the roughly 20 miles from The Dalles to the Deschutes Recreational area.
Day 84: Tue 29 Jul 2003
Deschutes Recreation Area, Oregon - Umatilla, Oregon
95.8 miles 8:05 riding time |
| looking at the bridge from Biggs Junction to Maryhill, Washington - photo by Steve |
A small headwind actually fought me into breakfast at Biggs Jct, but by the time I'd eaten, the prevailing westerlies were back! I met a couple from Australia on a tandem doing the L-C route, followed by two young men 15 & 30 I'd guess. The younger man (boy) had been taken to the hospital last night from the effects of heat exhaustion although he said he felt fine when he went to bed. I asked how much water he'd drunk after the ride, and he allowed he'd drunk a full liter! Probably 3 times that amount was needed, and he hadn't gone for a swim either! Obviously, this happened between Umatilla and Biggs Junction. They're doing a ride on a route they put together themselves from Whitefish, MT to Portland, OR. Anyway, that was a good reason to spend a little longer swimming in the Columbia at Umatilla tonight.
Day 85: Tue 30 Jul 2003
Umatilla, Oregon - Waitsburg, Washington
80.1 miles 6:32 riding timeThe heat continues! Fortunately, there is water at the lower portion of the rest stop at Hwy 12 (we'd only tried the upper portion on the ride West and found the drinking fountain doesn't work), and by the time the hot part of the day had arrived I was in Walla Walla. I rode on to Waitsburg where I again spent the night at cousin Pat Largent's.
Day 85: Tue 30 Jul 2003
Waitsburg, Washington - Lewiston, Idaho
82.2 miles 7:23 riding time |
| on the shortcut to Pomeroy just before the pavement ends |
No flats on the way home from Seaside, and only one since leaving Chris' home in the suburbs of D.C. 5,128 miles ago!
Post ride thoughts: Chris showed incredible improvement during this ride. I believe the thing that kept him going was his love of the idea of riding his bike across the country and determination. In Ohio he stopped pushing up most of the hills. He rode well across the plains and steadily lost weight. His self image was slower to improve than was his body, but crossing the Continental Divide on Lemhi Pass seemed to bring his new body and self-image into alignment. He never regained that weight, and rode across the country again in 2010 on the Southern Tier with six others in an SUV supported ride. I was back in the working world and couldn't join them. In 2016 while I was riding the Northern Tier he drove cross country and happened to catch up with me outside Dobson, MT on the day my rear hub was failing. He drove me back to Havre (infamous Havre for us) where I bought a new wheel, and he then returned me to Dobson so I could chase my group that didn't wait for me.
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| Chris and Steve in Dodson, MT in 2016 - digital photography has improved since 2003 - Photo by Steve |
Happy Cycling for Fun, Fitness, and Transportation!
Steve
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